When I'm driving down the highway it overheats and the heater stops blowing out hot air and it starts just barely blowing coldthen when I got stopped at a blue steam out the top when I took the cap off

Heater blows cold don't heat up

Slight hissing sound every minute or so coming from the area of glove box when heater is on. No hissing sound when heater is off

In normal road my car good but in mountain car going to heating

Temperature rosed to 3/4 the temperature gauge.

Heater/AC fan stopped blowing

My heater and aircondaition dos nott blow when i turn it on

The engine barely heats, i have low temperature on the gauge, and also from the cabin heater not much. Especially in the winter the temperature gauge of the engine barely moves, when i’m turning on the heating in the cabin, the arrow drops to zero. I’ve changed the thermostat, got rid of air pockets, coolant level is ok, changed the temperature sensor on the engine block. I’ve noticed few days ago that the rubber hose that is clamped to the thermostat is weeping a bit, i can see a slight residue of coolant crystallised. Could it be that it’s sucking air in the system? Besides that what could it be? Thank you!

Whenever i drive in city so i feel car engine heating too much

Reservoir coolant water dried up when AC works for close to 2 hours

My vehicle overheats anytime I embark on over an hour journey. Even on a short distance trip, it rises once I turn on my Air Conditioner for up to 20 minutes duration

I just bought a used 2004 Honda civic ex coupe and it started overheating. The previous owner said that he replaced the radiator, timing belt, water pump, etc. And gave me the old timing belt as proof. I replaced the thermostat to see if that was the issues but it was not. When I open the radiator cap to add coolant it is never full. Any ideas?

Air-conditioning is turned off while driving

Just bought a 1998 coupe civic dx model with a d16y7 ? Manual 1.6l on my way home I parked the vehicle noticed bubbling sound coming from under hood figured coolant ? Two days later I checked fluids radiator lost coolant and oil down to my knuckle on radiator cap with oil. Rinsed out overflow it was full too with engine oil. Refilled coolant, hoses have probably too much pressure in it. Radiator fan has yet to turn on.

My 2008 Honda Civic start here n there. I've replace thermostat, new spark plugs, belts, it still won't start until I heat up the spark plugs, then it start. Can you tell me why that is?

I changed the radiator cause it had a crack in it and was obviously overheating. I changed the hoses and thermostat as well. The fan stopped working so I changed the relay. Every three days I top off the coolant in the morning because if I don't on the third day it will start overheating but then will go back down. It fluctuates. When I put fluid in even when cold like in the morning I notice lots of pressure built up. There's no oil in the over flow fluid. It looks pretty clean.

When I'm driving down the highway it overheats and the heater stops blowing out hot air and it starts just barely blowing coldthen when I got stopped at a blue steam out the top when I took the cap off

Whenever i turned on A/C or heater i felt some kind of whistle sound coming from inside and this only happened if i turned on A/c or heater.

I just bought this 1999 Honda Civic DX coupe. Since I bought it, I haven't been able to get the AC to work. I did notice the condenser fan wasn't working, even checked the fuses. I ordered another one, which should be here soon. However, the AC blows, just not cold air. It just blows the hot air that's outside. Now, I've checked all AC and heater fuses, I've checked the relays, I've even tried recharging it. One thing I have noticed is that the AC clutch doesn't engage at all. However the compressor does spin and doesn't seem to be making any serious noises or anything. Should I just get a new clutch, or the whole compressor with it?

Honda Civic D17A2 Engine Swap — Three Issues Background: Recently swapped D16W9 for a D17A2. Compression test shows 176 PSI uniform across all cylinders. Issue 1 — Noise from Belt Area On cold start at 900-1000 RPM, a rhythmic tuk-tuk sound appears from the accessory belt area. Becomes more pronounced when AC is turned on. Gets clearer when revved with AC engaged. Disappears completely within 40-50 seconds as engine warms up. Grinding sound confirmed with screwdriver on alternator and AC compressor bodies. Suspect worn bearing in either alternator or AC compressor. Issue 2 — Mild Overheatin… Read complete

HO2S Heater Resistance
Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0055
Customer specific trouble code. See manual...
C1555

Had the mechanic shop fix our ac, since then it will randomly overheat or my gas sensor will not read properly (That was stuck and is temporarily fixed until we can get it to the shop) The overheating has caused Buffy (Our Civic) to be undriveable.

I’ve been having this issue probably about a year or so after owning the car. I bought the car originally when it had 60,000 miles or so. Obviously over the last 3 years I’ve put quite a bit of miles on it. Never had/have had any issues with it besides the AC. I don’t know really anything about vehicles to start so any and all things I say are mostly based on assumption. The car itself is fine when it comes to airflow. If the ac/heating is on there is a great stream of air but it takes a solid 15-20 minutes of blowing the air before it becomes cool enough to have my windows up. Issue wa… Read complete