I had to replace the flywheel/flexplate and when my friend bolted everything back together the ground wires from body to frame and engine to frame didn't get bolted back up or were removed and lost. So I took a set of jumper cables and hooked them to the appropriate spots to simulate ground wires and it started. Now I just have to install true ground wires and problem solved.
I changed the automatic transmission out to a manual t-5 with a flywheel an had it tuned to accept the manual transmission but he couldn't go further since there was a 5v short somewhere an it in engine reduced power mode
Truck will drive and when stopped at light, engine turns off with some warning lights and loss of power. Will not restart or generate error code to trace. Truck then needs to sit for 60_90 minutes before starting. This is a major safety hazard. Chevy isn’t able to resolve.
1998 5.7 Chevy 1500 C truck. It will run for two seconds without pouring fuel in throttle body, then stops. Changed fuel pump relay. Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, cap and rotor. I will change wires and plugs next. It does run when I pour fuel into the throttle body. Im getting these codes po452 p1626 po463 po108 not sure what they mean. Should I clear these codes?
I have good fuel pressure 60 psi at the test port. This is not a daily driver. Truck has been sitting several years!
Out of the 4 codes, the P1626 is the one to be concerned with. That is the VATS system disabling the fuel system because it doesn't recognize the key at start up. Have you tried performing the key relearn procedure? Any OBD2 scanner should let you look at live data in the Body Control Module to determine if the BCM is acknowledging a valid key. The actually source of the problem varies wildly though. Could be a bad ignition switch module, a low battery, faulty BCM, etc.. . When I find BCM issues like that, I always look under the dash below the column for signs someone added an aftermarket alarm or other hackery, that is usually where the issue stemmed from.
Thanks for getting back to me. I discount the battery and then touched positive and negative wires together several times. I turned on lights and ignition. Then waited 15 min. Then connected battery back. Battery fully charged with a trickle charge on it. I turned on the ignition for 10 min. Then off for 10 seconds. I did this 4 times. Its still not starting. I did notice the alternator charge gauge and light not coming on like it did before. Still not starting. Doing the same running a few seconds then stopping. Is there a way to check the BCM and the PCM before changing them?
@Trucker BobThere are procedures for 100% verifying the BCM is at fault but it involves tearing down the steering column and verifying the red w/white stripe wire at the ignition module has battery voltage with the key in the crank position. Are there any other "odd" behaviors going on? Such as brake and reverse lights staying on, horn stays on, wipers, etc.. . Without being there in person to condemn the BCM, it is almost a safe bet the BCM is at fault. If you are interested in purchasing a rebuilt module that you won't have to program, remove your current BCM from under the steering column, record the exact part #, year, make, and model of your vehicle and look these guys up: https://highway71autoparts.com/
So far their BCM's have been perfect, only need to perform the key relearn procedure and go.
2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3 It will crank one time then shut off. Reads engine power reduced... I changed the alternator for a new 240 Amp and big three wires 1/0 awg. Obd2 scan. MIS green. Fuel red x. CCM green. Cat red x. Evap yellow x. O2S yellow X. HTR yellow X. EGR yellow X
When checking main fuse box under hood with multi meter probe I damaged number 5 ECU. One end of the mini fuse pins wasn't making contact so I bent the pin so it would fit tight and secure. Also I had to change both battery terminals to Vgate 8 way lead. After I reset the code all warning lights went out. So far so good.
Just finished rebuilding the engine and after installing the engine and trying to start the truck the Ecm relay starter a clicking sound and the Truck won’t start but as soon as I move the wire under the fuse box the car turns on. The wire is under the ecm relay. I’m not sure if the wire is broken or did I miss something while installing the motor. If anyone else had this problem before please let me know thanks 🙏
The coolant temperature opens and closes the thermostat. In this case the thermostat is on the lower suction hose between the engine and radiator. So the cold water in the radiator cools the thermostat and closes it before the water gets to the engine. Leaving the hot water in the engine and cold water keeping the thermostat closed preventing the water circulation. This is even more evident when you get a three row all aluminum radiator. But the time the water actually begins to circulate, its too late. The water in radiator has reached a level of hot and the engine is boiling. Just like the old days when you took the thermostat out and drove a long distance. Its jist keeps heating up.
So has anyone found a solution or an inline thermostat to go in the upper radiator?
So i got an inline thermostat housing and 160 thermostat cut the top radiator hose. Took out the thermostat in factory location. Im steady at 180 all the time now
Truck will start run about 30 seconds then dies and will not start again have replaced both fuel pumps crank sensor spark plugs throttle body and map sensor
Is there a key light or light saying security flashing or illuminated at all when this happens you may need to reprogram your transponder in your key...putting some fuel directly in the throttle body without turning the key off after this happens and trying to start it back up would indicate if it starts again that you have a fuel issue most likely… if the computer doesn’t read the transponder in the key it’ll have similar symptoms have you run diagnostics since the condition had occurred
I recently just replaced the head gasket in the intake manifold gasket and went to start it and it cranks over but it won't start and then I have no spark to My plugs checked plug connections checked fuses kind of lost
Double-check all components underneath the distributor cap and ignition connector harness. Spark plug wires included. Now, do you have a signal or audio sound for the fuel pump while the key is in accessory mode? Does the fuel pressure rail consist of high-pressure or low-pressure flow?
I am new to this site. I have an issue with my 5.3 sometimes has a rough idle and does have check engine light on P0420 I was told to replaced the cats, no changes, replaced all 4 o2 sensors and light still on. any opinions?
Make sure replacement parts are oem. 2 get tester to make sure wire are actually reading something. Odb reader can let you know if there's a reading upstream and downstream, if it reads 0 then there's a good chance it might be the wire.
I have this issue. My cooling fans had gotten where they would stay running after I parked it and running my battery down . Then also my fuel pump stopped working and then started working again. But the fans come on when I turn the key off and turn off when I turn the key on. Now I have no power windows or locks only half of my instrument cluster works my abs and battery light and check engine all stay on . I have checked every fuse that I possibly know of I don't know what else to do?
I just finished rebuilding the 5.3 in my truck. I have had issues with the security several times and it happened again but this time it won't start even after doing the relearn on the key. It still acts like it's the security has the injectors shut off. Does anyone have any suggestion
I have been trying all day and it still won't start. I have done the relearn on the key more times than I can count. I have unhooked the battery and drain the battery in the ecu and let it sit unhooked from the battery for several hours. I have checked every fuse and relay and nothing has worked. I can still access the ecu with my code reader and the only thing that continues to show up is o2 sensors low voltage. Any help would be appreciated.
Both cooling core fans running at start up and throughout run/drive time. Temp guage shows no temp reading. Replaced temp sensor on engine. Problem is intermittent, not full-time issue. Dealership cannot diagnose problem when it isn't occurring. Frustrating!
Same issue. Fans will run till I shut the engine and then shut off 4-5 minutes after. About every 5 weeks I have to disconnect the battery to stop the fans from running
My 2016 silverado did the same thing, temp gage reads lower than normal and the fans continue to run even after turn off the engine... Replace thermostat and Coolant sensor. Fixed the problem.
Yes this fuse can cause this symptoms! However, if the fuse checks ok, look for corrosion and fuse contact issues on the FSCM fuse and for that matter any fuses on the under hood board. This under hood board is in no way sealed from the elements, and as they get older the dirt, grime & contaminants that get in there cause intermitent & sometimes solid continuity issues right at the fuse stab connections. Pullem out, cleanem up with electrical contact cleaner & reinstall. Good luck!
Changed oil pressure switch due to a P0521 code i changef and still have my check engine light on and still low oil pressure on gauge. Can someone help please ? Need to get inspected.
take off bottom radiator hose is the easiest unless your radiator has a drain plug because some do.get you a bucket to catch it all in and after you have it all drained reattach your hose and crank your vehicle and start filling it up that way you can try at best to avoid getting air in the system but if by chance you do get you a 2 liter cut the bottom out and wrap the top with electric tape until it will snuggly fit in your reservoir and fill it up and let it sit and you will start to see big bubbles come back up through your bottle keep it topped off till bubbles stop
I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 L I changed the engine control module and it started and installed and it won't start any suggestions I've changed spark plugs spark plug wires distributor distributor cap and the coil also
you need to do a 30 minute relearn on it. try to start it and when it cuts back out leave your key on and let it sit for 10 mins exactly keep a timer and do this 3 times in 10 min intervals and after the 3rd time it should start hook your battery up to a charger and be sure it doesnt die during this procedure. if it doesnt start keep doing the test of 10 min intervals 3 times until the system has relearned the computer
Check your evap line from the fuel tank thru a solenoid valve and filter under left side of cab and then up into the top of the intake manifold. If it is cut or open to the atmosphere it will constantly pull fresh air into the manifold and cause air/fuel mixture to run lean and cause the engine to run hot. Had this problem on my 2003 5.3. Replacing that leaking line instantly cleared up the constant over heating.
I changed my thermostat, temperature sensor, my truck isn't over heating but my a/c keeps going out. I even took my ECM fuse out and put it back to reset everything, for a while my a/c blows ice cold again but after a few hours my temperature gauge goes back to flat bottom and my a/c shuts off again. What can i do...what's the problem???? 2013 Chevrolet silverado z71 4x4