Radiator: Finned aluminium panel placed in the frontal part, inside of the engine bay.
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Inside of it flows the hot refrigerant. Its purpose is to allow the air at room temperature between the fins to cool the refrigerant. It has 2 thick hoses, one in the opening (upper part) and another in the exit (lower part).
The coolant temperature opens and closes the thermostat. In this case the thermostat is on the lower suction hose between the engine and radiator. So the cold water in the radiator cools the thermostat and closes it before the water gets to the engine. Leaving the hot water in the engine and cold water keeping the thermostat closed preventing the water circulation. This is even more evident when you get a three row all aluminum radiator. But the time the water actually begins to circulate, its too late. The water in radiator has reached a level of hot and the engine is boiling. Just like the old days when you took the thermostat out and drove a long distance. Its jist keeps heating up.
So has anyone found a solution or an inline thermostat to go in the upper radiator?
So i got an inline thermostat housing and 160 thermostat cut the top radiator hose. Took out the thermostat in factory location. Im steady at 180 all the time now
The electric coolant fan relays , underneath , buss bars are totally corroded and need to be replaced ! Saw a relay upgrade for my year &model truck , an upgrade for the relays on E'bay. Will they work ?Is there a wiring diagram for it ?
Mice get on top of the fan fuse block and pee on everything. Which corroded the bus bars and contacts were 10 A fuse sets. How can you bypass or splice in a 10 A fuse.
take off bottom radiator hose is the easiest unless your radiator has a drain plug because some do.get you a bucket to catch it all in and after you have it all drained reattach your hose and crank your vehicle and start filling it up that way you can try at best to avoid getting air in the system but if by chance you do get you a 2 liter cut the bottom out and wrap the top with electric tape until it will snuggly fit in your reservoir and fill it up and let it sit and you will start to see big bubbles come back up through your bottle keep it topped off till bubbles stop
T/S 'ing lead to relays (not in main panel nor dash panel). I'm not able to locate "J Block" fuse panel w/o tearing into the guts more. Ie.. I believe it's under the main fuse block housing., Visual inspection has me thinking at minimum a fender brace has to be removed. I am within walking distance of an open parts store. T.I.A. Moderators, this is a great site!
Check your evap line from the fuel tank thru a solenoid valve and filter under left side of cab and then up into the top of the intake manifold. If it is cut or open to the atmosphere it will constantly pull fresh air into the manifold and cause air/fuel mixture to run lean and cause the engine to run hot. Had this problem on my 2003 5.3. Replacing that leaking line instantly cleared up the constant over heating.