My husband and I have spent the last two weeks trying to figure out why our 2000 Honda Accord EX 3.0 V6 Sedan stopped running and we have been unsuccessful in our efforts.
The car began hesitating and losing power when accelerating or going uphill. We thought it was a fuel filter problem, but we learned that the 2000 Accord sedan doesn't have a fuel filter, in the traditional sense; apparently it is built into the fuel pump and is not a serviceable or replaceable part. We had inherited the car with an oil leak, about 1 quart per 20 miles, of course we located and fixed that problem right awa…
Read complete
My vehicle:
2008 Honda Accord 2.4L EX-L
Codes: P062f p060a p2610 p2118
Hard starting when cold or sitting for over 25 min. Otherwise would start fine and drive fine with no issues until next start.
Process:
Replaced battery, no change
Sent Pcm (ecu) for repair/service. ECU came back with no errors or damage found. No change. Replaced throttle body, no change. Cleaned map and maf sensors, no change. (This fixed issue for someone so figured I would inspect. )
Replaced FTP, code went away, but no change.
*Note: During idle, I noticed a minimal sputter. Almost not audible.
Researched more, and one person mentioned they changed the spark plugs and that fixed their car.
So, I produce a list of all possible fuel/Ignition related possibilities for hard start/idle sputter.
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Injectors
Fuel pump
As for me, I replaced the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and fuel pump about 2 years ago. And due to covid my car was almost not driven for the last 2 years. So, I removed them as possibilities for me. That left spark plugs.
I bought some NGK iridium plugs and replaced them. Old plugs were worn. (See pictures). This resolved my issues. No more cell lights, hard start, or idle sputter.
Definitely do your due diligence, but I'd say definitely go in this direction if your symptoms sound like mine did.
Good luck, everyone.
My Honda Accord 2008 was parked after several days under freezing weather. The engine cranked but didn’t start. On the warm day, it started but drove only 5 minutes then shutoff.
Read all online recommendations and attempts, I replaced new spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, swapped relay switch around, cleaned throttle body and air intake tube, nothing worked. It was getting worse as the engine started but died within a minute. After I felt the symptom was like the throttle body did not open that had caused the engine shutoff and thrown faulty ECU related code. Before thinking of replacing the ECU or get the dealer reprogram it, I found an online source on how to reset the ECU for the TB on Honda Accord. Someone posted it for the earlier year model. I tried and it worked on my Accord as well. I had already tested by driving hours. The car has been running well like before. My solution was to reset the ECU for the TB.