Okay. So on the entertainment screen. (radio) said "system down to save power "
Had the charging system check. Found battery was bad. Replaces the battery. Now we have no sound from the radio, BUT have sound if you play a CD??
Any ideas what is going on???
There are a few possible causes for this issue, but here are the most common ones:
Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel in the engine compartment and inside the vehicle to see if the radio fuse has blown. If it has, replace it with one of the same amperage.
Wiring Issues: Check the wiring to the radio and the speaker system. Make sure there are no cuts, frays, or corrosion on the wiring.
Radio Unit Failure: If the wiring and fuse are both fine, the issue may be with the radio unit itself. This could be caused by a malfunctioning amplifier, a problem with the wiring, or an issue with the unit's firmware.
Speaker Failure: If you have sound from the CD player but not from the radio, it's possible that the speakers are at fault. Check the speaker connections to make sure they are secure and the wiring is not damaged. If the speaker cones are damaged or blown, you may need to replace the speakers.
It's always best to consult with a professional technician who can diagnose and repair your car's audio system. They will be able to properly diagnose the issue and repair it so that your car's audio system functions properly.
When my truck is parked, it drains the battery. Have taken to ford and had checked and tested. They said it was the PCM. I have had the PCM replaced and programmed. Still having the same issue. Have just put in the second new battery. Truck still has a faint humming noise coming from the engine compartment and draining the battery. If I pull the #53 relay and put right back in it shuts off whatever is not shutting down. I put a maintainer on it over night.
My sound comes from under the hood. I have found that if I pull the first one to the left (relay) every time I park the truck it stops the drain. I just pull it and put it right back in. Still dont know what is causing it.
@Truck GirlI have a 2012 f150 humming coming from passenger side. Same issue pull the relay it stops been going on for a month. Now sounds like a solenoid clicking in transmission when off with a humming noise now from underneath the hood no codes at all
@MikeWhen my problem first started it was having a intermitting clicking noise coming from the passenger side under the hood when the truck was turned off. Don't seem to be doing that anymore. Still has the humming noise and draining the battery though.
I had same battery drain issue and a noise that was coming from middle of the truck -heard best where cab and bed come together. Found the fuse panel - that's a joke...and just by chance came back to drivers seat and started messing with the headlight switch , it stopped the buzzing , now I
Dk how it got into the on position however it is dusk , but that was my noise and my drain...
did anybody find out why solenoids keeps clicking in transmssion, because thats my problem, when i shut my engine down then turn key on for a couple second it the clicking stops
Anyone ever get to the root cause of this battery drain issue? Having the same issue on my 2014. When its below 25 deg F cycle the key, I hear buzzing and will draw 5 amps. ALl I need to do is pull fuse 53, then put it back in and all problems gone. Please whats the fix?
It is a trans relay; my 2013 was doing the same thing, so I rigged a switch from the fuse to cab, Shut it off then just turned it back on. ?They problem went away in the spring, and since has not returned, it's been over two years now, Check all connection plug's at the richgt side of trans,
So my truck ended ip not starting Wednesday so first my whole dash shutoff like gages werent working, then i went to park and turned it off but when i trued starting it again it wouldn’t fire up but inly crank my battery is good any ideas?
Was running heater / defrost. Heat on high blower on med. Started hearing a loud click or sparking sound. Turned everything off radio, heater. Trying to figure out where it was coming from. It stopped. Turned heater on it starts up again. I adjusted the temp down and it stopped for a few minutes and started again. Turning down work. Doesn't do it when on the cool side.
The speakers with my sync stereo system sound terrible. They sound fuzzy and vibrating like they are blown but I know they're not because it does it at different times for different speakers throughout the truck. It also doesn't matter if it's radio CD Bluetooth it all sounds like crap.
I haven't noticed a hot or cold relation to it, but I will definitely check those patterns. I have done a little more digging and looking into it though and apparently Ford used $8 speakers for about a 3-year. That includes my 2013. There apparently have been loads of complaints. The only solution is to buy better ones that I have found so far.
The engine of my F150 5.4 Lariat sounds as if it was diesel, and on the passenger side the engine block makes a clanking sound. When I start it it doesn't make the noise, but as soon as it warms up it starts again. I checked the cranshaft's connecting rods and everything looks fine, the timing belt is new but the noise is still there, and it vibrates and loses accelaration when you throttle it.
I have the same problem with a 4WD, a mechanic saw it and said it only needed oil because this engines have almost 2 gallons, and also told me to change the oil pump.
Hello, I have a problem with my 5.4 v3 truck, first I thought it was the chain but after disassembling and changing the tensors I saw some damages, and then changed the oil pump. It kept doing the same noises, in fact you can hear it even more, and also it burns the raw gas. The engine is not vibrating anymore, but I don't get any warning or a check engine light
I had same problem with my 2008 5.4 Triton motor check oil pressure if low check thrust bearing mine had over an inch of end play ford replace my motor with a long block while under warranty how the low oil pressure told them it was the thrust bearing i have no clue. But it did and it cost me zero dollars to have motor replaced so i don't imagine it was a fictitious diagnostic one month latter they replace the transmission and said it was a related they said the motor caused the problem with the transmission total repaire bill compleatly under warranty was $16,000.00
Make sure your truck gets an engine cleaning, it's a liquid they put in the oil before changing it. Then add your 5 20 semi-synthetic and done. That noise is because the engine is dirty and it takes a while for the lubrication to get everywhere, and if you leave it like that you'll damage the engine. Hope it helps!
Radio works,but cannot see station or time, sometimes radio changes station by itself. CD player will not accept cd, when it does accept cd it reads Error. Also overhead console does not work any more, no time,temperature or direction can be seen. I've already checked fuses.
2004 Ford F150, stock radio lights up but doesn't play on any stations. Accepts CD in, makes whirring and mechanical noises, nothing plays, keeps CD. Clearly has power, no music. Thoughts?
Our F150 Eco Boost has started making a wierd noise when we start up the engine...it starts and runs BUT is making a shreeel noise. What would this indicate?
Probably either a loose belt or the belt tensioner needs replacing. Could also be a failing bearing in the alternator, which would ‘squeel’ When under load, such as first starting.
I have a squelling-chirping kind of noise coming from the lower to mid way passenger side of the motor only while in gear.It gets louder if i apply gas but will stop once i put it in park and neutral.It's not the belt because it still makes the sound with belt off, help me please!!!
I also repleaced the alterner and power streeing pump and I still get sguelling noise for about 5 miles or so , and once in a while a chipping or a greinding noises for about 2 to 3 seconds
Good afernoon, I own a Ford 150 fx4 2007 and recently I've changed both VCT (Variable Camshaft Timing), pinions and roller chains, a camshaft, spark plugs and coils. I have as well changed the oil but the engine is now giving off a sound at low revs, as if those chains were touching themselves.Even more, if I drive in reverse, the car usually starts trembling and, in order to stop it, I need to desaccelerate or stop it. No failure is provided by the computer, any ideas?
After taking my 2010 Ford F-150 XL to a local mechanic who replaced my heater blower unit after it was successfully replaced and now up and running my radio in which all lights and displays come on however no sound is coming from the speakers which leave me to believe somewhere a connection failure has occurred somewhere underneath my dash between the radio itself and my blower unit any ideas?
Probably a loose connection. From what I have found, 09-14 series, the factory radio has all connectors in the back. Just pull the cover, and you can get the radio out. There are several youtube videos. The radio is held in by 4 screws, I think it has 2-3 connectors and antenna connector. The console cover I think is 3 or 4 screws, you pull back on other covers on driver and passenger side to get the radio cover off. I do advise to either read a service manual on it or watch a youtube video from one of the mechanics.
Please give me the fuse number for the exhaust valve motor not able to change exhaust sound Thank you very much Tom Gormley 215 824 1947 tomgormley86@gmai.com
The other fuse (32 IIRC) is for the AFM valves, that come into play when the engine is in 4 cylinder mode. Pulling that fuse will cause a Check Engine Light.
Once the ignition key is released after starting the vehicle, the is a grinding noise that lasts at times a brief second or two and at other times it last several seconds. Sometimes is does not do it at all. It seems that it does it more frequently when cranking after the vehicle has ran for awhile or driven or when its hot outside.
Possible serpentine belt slipping, it sounds more like long squeak than grinding. Temperature, water, oil, and dry rot will all affect it and will change how long it does it when these conditions change. Replace serpentine belt if old and dry rotted. Could be tensioner or other caponents. Check serpentine belt.
Same here expect all of em are making noise and my dash lights come on along with the dome light flashing now it's stuck in 4 low and keeps blowing the same fuses
Had the same problem with a 2003 , differential clutches were sticking , Ford sells an additive that may cure the problem , or replace the clutches ,approx. $ 1000.00 fix
When I accelerate a little hard there is a thumping noise, but there is none if I do it slowly. I already changed the bracket where the wheels are attached, the differential was checked and everything seems alright. Somebody told me it might be the gearbox mounting, could it be?
Your trucks problem could be the grease that came from the factory on the slip yoke, it might need to be greased again and you won't hear that thumping noise again, that happens with the Ford trucks with double cardan.
Just about everytime you turn the truck off this loud noise like pressure trying to escape, its not the IWC (tested an passed) and I did replace the oil pressure switch but light remains on, does seem like the oil has a faint fuel smell. It doesn't have a Ford oil filter (ive read that could cause issues with this motor) but I did get a oil change because process of elimination with some of the diag ive done. I haven't checked the pcv value or test the fuel thing on the driver value cover yet or ac and alt. But does seem like the noise is up top
I keep having an issue with misfires on cylinders 1 & 4, after I replace plug and coil issue resolves for a while. I also am hearing a noise that sounds like a resetting socket wrench when accelerating. I have replaced the motor which had a similar sound prior to replacement.
And then the brake light came on and the then wanted me to shut off truck dk I did and then there was nothing no cab lights or head lights and power anywhere in the truck
Just rebuild the alternator like last month and fixed an electrical problem it had that had cause the alternator to blow now 2 days ago the alternator is blown out again
Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel in the engine compartment and inside the vehicle to see if the radio fuse has blown. If it has, replace it with one of the same amperage.
Wiring Issues: Check the wiring to the radio and the speaker system. Make sure there are no cuts, frays, or corrosion on the wiring.
Radio Unit Failure: If the wiring and fuse are both fine, the issue may be with the radio unit itself. This could be caused by a malfunctioning amplifier, a problem with the wiring, or an issue with the unit's firmware.
Speaker Failure: If you have sound from the CD player but not from the radio, it's possible that the speakers are at fault. Check the speaker connections to make sure they are secure and the wiring is not damaged. If the speaker cones are damaged or blown, you may need to replace the speakers.
It's always best to consult with a professional technician who can diagnose and repair your car's audio system. They will be able to properly diagnose the issue and repair it so that your car's audio system functions properly.