I have a 98 honda civic lx and I just replaced the radiator and put it all back together after we put it back together it would not start

I had my car in for timing belt and water pump and once I got it back my radio won't turn on or even light up for me to be able to put a code in fuses are all good help please

My Honda civic keeps losing power and switching off, especially when the temperatures are a bit high. Sometimes it does this randomly in the middle of the road. My mechanic told me that it is a radiator problem, replaced it but still nothing changed. My check engine light came on a while after, and my speedo stopped working. After the car stops, it takes about 10 mins or so to pick again. Otherwise it just spins the starter motor. Any advice on what to do here?

A/C is cold and works fine while driving. After a long drive, when idling or parked, the A/C cuts out. Both radiator fans are working. Compressor, condenser, and pressure switch are new. After resting for 1–2 hours, A/C works again. The A/C only cuts out after driving, then idling. What could be the cause?

AC compressor and supporting parts, including a filter process that looks like a mini radiator replaced, all with honda new parts. In spite of doing all of this, the AC does not blow enough cold air to keep up with hot houston weather. What can we do to boost power accordingly.

Honda Civic D17A2 Engine Swap — Three Issues Background: Recently swapped D16W9 for a D17A2. Compression test shows 176 PSI uniform across all cylinders. Issue 1 — Noise from Belt Area On cold start at 900-1000 RPM, a rhythmic tuk-tuk sound appears from the accessory belt area. Becomes more pronounced when AC is turned on. Gets clearer when revved with AC engaged. Disappears completely within 40-50 seconds as engine warms up. Grinding sound confirmed with screwdriver on alternator and AC compressor bodies. Suspect worn bearing in either alternator or AC compressor. Issue 2 — Mild Overheatin… Read complete

The engine barely heats, i have low temperature on the gauge, and also from the cabin heater not much. Especially in the winter the temperature gauge of the engine barely moves, when i’m turning on the heating in the cabin, the arrow drops to zero. I’ve changed the thermostat, got rid of air pockets, coolant level is ok, changed the temperature sensor on the engine block. I’ve noticed few days ago that the rubber hose that is clamped to the thermostat is weeping a bit, i can see a slight residue of coolant crystallised. Could it be that it’s sucking air in the system? Besides that what could it be? Thank you!

Reservoir coolant water dried up when AC works for close to 2 hours

I have honda civic 2011 4 door saden 1.8 little cylinder car... few days ago in the night accidently I contacted the jumping cabels backwards...and frm that day car only cranks nd not start I aslo checked the all fues from master fues to dashboard no fues is blowned , but when I checked the ignition coils they all 4 are some cracks is might be the reason...? Bcz It's radiator
Also leaked nd engine got heated but that time it's starting after conacting cables backwards it stops working ,, and if i try to start it with Jumpstarter it's not even cranks or getting the crunt but when trying with other car than it's getting the crunt nd cranks
Anyone have any idea what the reason...?

The main automatic radiator fan is not working at all. I have got each and every relay and the wiring checked. The fan is still not working. What could be the problem

Engine suddenly power off while driving and radiator fans are through want to set fans on automatic base

when driving my cars idle tends to climb all the way to around 4k rpms. under no load that is.
Ive done everything from changing throttle body and gaskets, IACV bled the coolant system, changed fuel injectors. ive even changed the ECU because the car threw a P1106 Baro meter code. and after replacement it fixes it temporarily. then just comes back a day or two later.

I just bought a used 2004 Honda civic ex coupe and it started overheating. The previous owner said that he replaced the radiator, timing belt, water pump, etc. And gave me the old timing belt as proof. I replaced the thermostat to see if that was the issues but it was not. When I open the radiator cap to add coolant it is never full. Any ideas?

Radiator vibration and makaing sound

I’ve been having this issue probably about a year or so after owning the car. I bought the car originally when it had 60,000 miles or so. Obviously over the last 3 years I’ve put quite a bit of miles on it. Never had/have had any issues with it besides the AC. I don’t know really anything about vehicles to start so any and all things I say are mostly based on assumption. The car itself is fine when it comes to airflow. If the ac/heating is on there is a great stream of air but it takes a solid 15-20 minutes of blowing the air before it becomes cool enough to have my windows up. Issue wa… Read complete

Just bought a 1998 coupe civic dx model with a d16y7 ? Manual 1.6l on my way home I parked the vehicle noticed bubbling sound coming from under hood figured coolant ? Two days later I checked fluids radiator lost coolant and oil down to my knuckle on radiator cap with oil. Rinsed out overflow it was full too with engine oil. Refilled coolant, hoses have probably too much pressure in it. Radiator fan has yet to turn on.

Don't see any water leeks but coolent disappears put on new ŕadiator, hoses ,cap could it be the head gasket.

I changed the radiator cause it had a crack in it and was obviously overheating. I changed the hoses and thermostat as well. The fan stopped working so I changed the relay. Every three days I top off the coolant in the morning because if I don't on the third day it will start overheating but then will go back down. It fluctuates. When I put fluid in even when cold like in the morning I notice lots of pressure built up. There's no oil in the over flow fluid. It looks pretty clean.