I just put a new battery in my LX and it still won't start. I listened for sounds, no clicks. All of the dash warning lights, headlights, radio, and even AC come on when I turn the key, but no vroom vroom. Strange thing is the hazards lights start blinking and won't go off, not even when I turn the car off. After wiggling the turn signal stick a little and pressing the hazard button in a few times it cuts off. But when I open the door of the car the hazards come on again, and are accompanied by ding ding sound like when door is ajar--even after door is shut. I was thinking electrical problem

My car sat all winter. I just replaced the battery, and now warning lights remain ON. The stereo won't work, either...nothing happens when I press "Source" and nothing happens when I try to turn on the radio/CD player.
I am afraid to drive the vehicle, but it was in perfect working condition when I last drove it.
Through my research, I learned a few things...it could be sensors or fuses. Or, I could drive it around and see if the lights go off?

I need advice!

Break lights stay on and drain my battery

So I bought this civic, used, in 2018 and never really had issues with anything. Around 2020-2021 my dash screen would say "check charge system" after about 20ish minutes of driving. Never noticed any power loss or anything like that. I've been through 2 batteries plus the one thats in the car now (I think) so I think the batteries are lasting the time they should? Once the battery light comes on that day then it'll be on until its off and sitting in my parking lot for the night. Autozone and O'Reilly's says my alternator is still charging the battery and theres nothing wrong with or without the battery light on. Could it be the positive terminal since it has some kind of system or circuit board at the positive terminal?

Fan doesn’t turn off when I switch car off. So it drains battery.

The battery won't stay charged the alternator is good and charging system is good and the car keeps cutting off

Initially I thought the alternator was bad but even when I start ignition and take off battery, car continue working.
Another thing observed is that whenever I rev, the battery indicator, the gear indicator on the dashboard keeps fluctuating.

Pls advice me

My car starts self-starting even after working hard for 4/5 days and its battery goes down. The battery of my car is also new

I went and got fuses and relays but from a pick and pull place. I tried a different battery and still nothing. What fuse or relay would cause zero power?

Stops going until car cools down doesn't want to start all fuses good

Enter Code which I believe to be in the glove compartment so did that and now says "Code Error 21.

I've changed the battery on my civic and when i turn the lights on the dashboard instruments lights go out

I parked and afterwards nothing won't start. It just stays dead as if didn't have battery, I tried to use jumper cables but it's like no electricity gets to it.

I thought it was the battery, but I got it checked checked and the technician said that both the battery and the alternator were fine. Later I went to do some shoppings, I got off the car and when I returned It just wouldn't start. It just makes a little sound because of the starter.

I can get the radio and CD and Aux to work sometimes but mostly not working. The CD player actually plays the disc but no sound. When I start the car it shows 'RADIO 1' with a telephone symbol. As soon as i press any button on the device it immediately changes the display to '1 AF ON' with the telephone symbol but nothing works when pressed and no sound. The Central locking sometimes stops working but opens with the key. I also looked at the dashboard layout with the ignition on for about 15 to 20 minutes and the car would not turn over. But after another 5 to 10 minutes suddenly worked fine.… Read complete

I have gone through the electrical, new starter, new distributor, new battery, as well as plugs and wires. Even while trying to jump it, nothing happens. Only thing I can think of that could be it, would be the neutral safety switch. But I thought of that too late. My car is now snowed in. Is there possibly anything else I could have missed? Any questions to help clarify diagnose the problem, I am happy to answer. I've been scratching my head on this for a while.

My car will sometimes refuse to start on the first try up to the 5th try. I have gone through all my fuses and checked my battery. I was told it was my alternator because it tested bad, so I replaced it. This did not fix it. I even thought it could be my starter but I can hear it clicking like it wants to start but the car will not crank. Any help is greatly appreciated as I would like to fix it on my own.

When I first turn key it's I get nothing, not even a click than when I turn key again right away I get about 2 seconds of cranking but still no start than a little more the next time or 2 than it will start normal. Until suddenly it wouldn't start at all that is after about a month of what I just described. However I put jumper cables on it and after a while it started yet the battery was good and I even put a new battery in it and it did the same thing

Car battery struggled from -50 weather and the radio error code came up since (last week)

My car when it get working the car battery drains and I remove the back up fuse and it stop drain and now after I remove the fuse the door lock stopped working and I don't understand

My car is a 2006 Honda Civic 8 coupe from Canada. One day, it wouldn't start. I bought a new battery, but a couple of days later, the same thing happened again. I grabbed a multimeter I started looking for the problem. The generator produces 14V at idle and at 2000 RPM. I started checking for a current leak. I connected a multimeter between the battery and the ground terminal. I started disconnecting all the fuses. The leak was located on fuse number 23 under the hood. I pulled it out and checked what had stopped working: the radio and the alarm. I disconnected the radio, but the leak didn't g… Read complete

Car starts no problem, but getting the following error lights on start up after the initial lights go dark... TPMS, ABS, VSA, Hill Assist, Power Steering. For the longest time no problems have been detected with any of these systems, until recently, I found that there was a problem a few minutes after startup that the hill assist system would kick on... regardless of the fact that I live in FL where there are no real hills. Putting the vehicle in park and/or engaging the parking break resolves the problem, and then it doesn't reoccur. Attempted replacing the fuse according to the fuse b… Read complete

The number 34 interior fuse keeps blowing and I noticed it once I was walking to my car and the lights on the exterior part of the car were not flashing to indicate that it was being locked. And it also does not work when it is being unlocked. I replace tThe number 34 interior fuse keeps blowing, and I noticed it once I was locking my car and the lights on the exterior part of the car we’re not flashing to indicate that it was being locked. And it also does not work when it is being unlocked. I replace the fuse with a 7.5 amp fuse and it blows did it again it also blue I upped it to a 10 fuse and it blew. Cleaned off the battery thinking it might be the problem and replaced with another 7.5 amp fuse and that one as well blue I am all out of ideas. Can anybody help me please thanks.

Often when I turn the key on my 2003 Civic LX nothing happens. The lights DO NOT DIM and there is no response from the starter. I can try turning the key two to 15 times before it engages the starter. Today I note that the DASH LIGHTS DO NOT DIM, but the radio light goes out completely. Now the car will not start at all. I’m gonna replace the battery and I’ll get back to you on here.

My vehicle has issues with the ECU and I got it replaced with an ECU with same part number. Now everything I remove the battery terminal, I need to reprogram the ECU before vehicle would start. Whats the solution to this ?

So basically I bought my 2007 Honda civic coupe LX from a guy and he redid most of everything, put in a new engine and all but about a month after making the purchase, the car started to start weird. Like would take a second to start up. So I talked to my grandpa who knows somewhat about cars and he said it might just be my starter starting to go out and to keep an eye on it. So I did, until I was driving down to the grocery store and turned off my car and tried to lock it when I got out, it wouldn’t lock. So I got back in the car, trying to figure out what was happening, the car wouldn’t star… Read complete

A while ago, I left my car while I was disabled for a year and a half, and the battery ended up dying. After I replaced the battery I noticed that some of the systems were not working like cruise control, and the CarPlay system. Since this time, I have gotten the cruise control to work again, but I could not get the CarPlay system to work.

Shift lever stuck in park after reversing polarity in battery

This is happening to me. I had starter, battery, alternator replaced and ignition control module. It still is wonky. It goes from am to FM to aux, to not working to turning on and it being very loud and it just beeps and beeps. It's crazy. I believe it's another faulty ignition control module. But the dealership won't even consider it being that. I explained to them that when they first put it in it worked great and after a day it's bad again and now my key fob with new battery does not lock/unlock my car. They key works great but that's my issue. I only have 134k miles.