Noise problems
Top problems
When you drive the car, the digging noise does not stop and drive and
GMC Yukon 2004 Tahoe 380000 miles
I cannot get the car to stop dinging when it drives
2 reports
JO
Unplug left front speaker
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CommentRough idle. Engine doesn’t sound right.
GMC Yukon 2015 98000 miles
Had an intermittent misfire on cylinder 8. Replaced spark plugs and wires. It came back. Changed cool pack and it went away. But since then the engine has a rough idle that you can feel and it sound horrible when standing to the sides of the engine bay but not when standing in front of it. I’ve taken it to multiple repair shops…. Dealer says new engine $10,000. Two others say it’s fine and it’s normal. Cleaned the fuel system multiple times. 98k miles. Yukon xl SLT 5.3L V8
Radio turns on, but no sound
GMC Yukon 2004 6.0l automatic 180000 miles
The radio turns on, I can search for channels and everything, but no sound. I jump started the truck and the radio worked like brand new. I changed the amp and radio from another Denali and still does the same thing. I checked all the fuses and they are all good.
3 reports
Audio malfunction inside the car, such as the radio sound and interior
GMC Yukon 2022 other specs 60000 miles
Audio malfunction inside the car, such as the radio sound and interior alert sound
3 reports
4x4 Problem
GMC Yukon 2004 GMC Yukon 175682 miles
Yukon doesn’t seem like it’s stuck in 4x4 but the ditch says 4 high and it will blink for like 10 seconds when you try to hit 2 high and go back to 4 high no sounds under the Yukon or anything
3 replies
Check or fill your transfer case fluid I just had a similar issue on my 01 after changing the transmission if not that the 3 ground wires on the frame by the driver door
@MarkBy the body mount on the frame just under the driver door
1
CommentI turn the key and nothing happens.
GMC Yukon 2000 5.3 250000 miles
When I turn key all lights illuminate and the starter does not turn and no noise comes out. I do it a bunch of times and randomly the vehicle turns on. Sometimes it turns one when I turn the key 20 times, sometimes I turn the key 100 plus times and nothing happens then it turns on at the first crank
1 reply
This classic "no crank" and "no start" issue is incredibly frustrating, but the fact that all dashboard lights illuminate means your battery has sufficient charge and the ignition switch sends power. At 250,000 miles, this behavior points to specific failing components in your starting system. Primary SuspectsBad Starter Solenoid or Contacts: The most common culprit is the solenoid attached to the starter. Over time, the internal electrical contacts and grease get worn down. When the key turns, if those copper contacts misalign or stick, the starter won't engage. Repeatedly turning the key eventually causes it to land perfectly, allowing the vehicle to start. Failing Ignition Switch: The mechanical switch assembly behind your key cylinder is prone to wearing out. The internal metal tracks inside the switch lose contact intermittently, failing to send the 12-volt signal to the starter. Corroded Connections or Bad Grounds: High electrical resistance from rust or corrosion can block power from reaching the starter. A loose or corroded battery terminal, or a corroded starter relay in the fuse box, can cause exactly this erratic, random starting behavior. Action Plan: How to Diagnose and FixCheck the Starter Relay: Swap the "Starter Relay" in the under-hood fuse box with an identical relay nearby (such as the horn or accessory relay). If the vehicle starts normally, your old relay is faulty. Inspect Battery and Starter Wires: Clean both battery terminals thoroughly. Follow the heavy positive wire from the battery to the starter motor underneath the Yukon. Ensure the connections are tight, and check for any melted or frayed wiring. Perform the "Tap Test": The next time the Yukon refuses to turn over, leave the key in the "On" position, crawl underneath, and gently tap the starter motor with a hammer or wrench. If the vehicle turns on afterward, the solenoid is dead and needs to be replaced. Replace the Starter: Given the high mileage, it is highly probable the starter's internal solenoid is wearing out. Replacing the starter motor usually resolves this exact issue permanently. Explore exact-fit replacement parts and local repair options on AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts.
CommentSurging then dropping out of gear
GMC Yukon 2001 5.3l v8 2wd 300000 miles
Cold start it runs and drives fine. After it warms up,starts surging at normal speed. Within 3 to 5 miles after cold start up it will drop out of gear. Pressing gas pedal, engine revs but no response transmission. Let it coast til speed and engine rpms seem to feel like 2nd or 3rd gear. Pushing gas pedal at this point the truck is in gear and drives shifting gears until reaching around 55mph then drops out gear again. I have replaced shift selonoids, transmission speed sensor and transmission filter. Cleaned maf sensor. Obd2 says knock sensor 2circuit bank 2
1 report
Most likely the problem is with the torque converter. It seems to be worn out in these cars. The torque converter usually wears out after 250,000 kilometers.
CommentLow oil pressure
GMC Yukon 2003 5.3 200000 miles
In the beginning, the oil pressure rose and fell to zero frequently, starting from zero if the car moved after about five minutes, rising and then falling if it stopped. I replaced the oil pump, replaced the rubber ring, replaced the oil sensor and filled it with 10W 30 oil. Now, if the engine is cold, the oil pressure is zero, and if I move for five minutes, it rises and remains elevated above half. I didn't notice sound in the engine.
3 reports
Low oil level: Insufficient oil in the engine reduces the pump’s ability to circulate oil effectively, leading to pressure drops. This can stem from leaks, oil consumption due to worn piston rings or seals, or infrequent checks. Incorrect oil viscosity: Using oil that is too thin (low viscosity) for your engine can reduce resistance and pressure, while oil that is too thick (high viscosity) may restrict flow, especially in cold conditions.
Worn engine bearings: Over time, bearings wear down, increasing the clearance between moving parts. This allows oil to flow too freely, reducing pressure—common in high-mileage engines and often accompanied by increased engine noise.
Faulty oil pump: A failing oil pump, due to wear, debris, or internal leaks, cannot maintain proper pressure. This is especially likely if the engine runs noisily even with adequate oil.
Clogged oil filter or pickup tube: Sludge, debris, or a blocked oil pickup screen restricts oil flow, reducing pressure. A clogged filter can also force the pump to work harder, lowering downstream pressure.
Contaminated or degraded oil: Mixing of oil with fuel, coolant, or sludge reduces its lubricating ability and can cause pressure loss.
Faulty oil pressure sensor: A malfunctioning sensor may trigger a warning light even when pressure is normal, or fail to alert when pressure is actually low.
Oil aeration: Low oil levels or high-speed turns can cause the pump to draw air into the oil, creating foam that reduces lubrication and pressure.
Blockages in oil galleries: Sludge or debris can obstruct oil passages, reducing system-wide pressure.
If the oil pressure warning light comes on, stop driving immediately to prevent severe engine damage. Check the oil level, and if it’s adequate, have the system inspected by a mechanic to diagnose the root cause. Regular maintenance, including timely oil changes and using the correct oil type, is essential to prevent low oil pressure.
Worn engine bearings: Over time, bearings wear down, increasing the clearance between moving parts. This allows oil to flow too freely, reducing pressure—common in high-mileage engines and often accompanied by increased engine noise.
Faulty oil pump: A failing oil pump, due to wear, debris, or internal leaks, cannot maintain proper pressure. This is especially likely if the engine runs noisily even with adequate oil.
Clogged oil filter or pickup tube: Sludge, debris, or a blocked oil pickup screen restricts oil flow, reducing pressure. A clogged filter can also force the pump to work harder, lowering downstream pressure.
Contaminated or degraded oil: Mixing of oil with fuel, coolant, or sludge reduces its lubricating ability and can cause pressure loss.
Faulty oil pressure sensor: A malfunctioning sensor may trigger a warning light even when pressure is normal, or fail to alert when pressure is actually low.
Oil aeration: Low oil levels or high-speed turns can cause the pump to draw air into the oil, creating foam that reduces lubrication and pressure.
Blockages in oil galleries: Sludge or debris can obstruct oil passages, reducing system-wide pressure.
If the oil pressure warning light comes on, stop driving immediately to prevent severe engine damage. Check the oil level, and if it’s adequate, have the system inspected by a mechanic to diagnose the root cause. Regular maintenance, including timely oil changes and using the correct oil type, is essential to prevent low oil pressure.
CommentTruck won't keep charge
GMC Yukon 2003 Suv 160000 miles
Had my truck for 6 years now and had no problems until I moved to Texas,and ruined my air ride suspension and then the problem started,the compressor would stay on after I shut it off,it will go off on its own but my truck will start in limp mode,I think the bags are popped,but never had money to replace it,it was so bad that I had to buy 2 alternators and 3 battery's to keep it going but like one post I read,it will only postpone the enviable,now 4 years into me owning it the compressor doesn't make a sound and she works great but still draining,now on top of that I now live in a 37foot trail… Read complete
I’m not seeing no metal inside the fuse location
GMC Yukon 1997 4x4 2000000 miles
My truck won’t spark it sounds like it wants to start but no spark Also not seeing metal where the fuse location is how do I Tap into the fuse box’s
1 report
Yukon, possible cam/lifter issue?
GMC Yukon 2015 Yukon XL L83 205000 miles
Exhaust leak, but also knocks and bogs down when accelerating
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