Gear box problems
Gear box: It is the place where the different "gears" of the cars are located.
Read more
More specific problems:
Related problems:
See owner's manual
Top problems
4 reports
16 reports
No forward gears
2010 Kia Rio Kia rio sedan lx sx 60000 miles
I parked the car came out the next day and i have reverse but no forward gears
11 reports
Failing battery
2015 Kia Rio 4 door automatic 3000 miles
This car is not yet one year old. This car has been in the shop at Kia 8 times for dead battery. Th Kia people can never find a problem. We have had 3 new batteries put in and the 4th will be installed this week. I am ready for legal action
9 reports
I have the same problem. Car (8 months old Rio)was not in use for 5 days and then the battery was completely empty, could not even unlock the door with remote. Recharged the battery and now is working, will see how long. Kia service didn't gave me any explanation, why this happened, so i searched for a second opinion of a very good car electrician. He believes that the problem in most likely in the smart clamp - an electronic part which regulates or programinig a work of alternator (which charges the battery). The same problem with smart clamp is also frequently noticed with new German VW.
This smart clapm is expensive, so that could be the reason why the they don't want to replace it with the new one, unless they are 100% shoore it is defective.
This smart clapm is expensive, so that could be the reason why the they don't want to replace it with the new one, unless they are 100% shoore it is defective.
Negrinha kia 2012 from Angola 7 months ago
Olá, tenho um kia 2012. Está com o mesmo problema de bateria, coloquei uma bateria nova, e depois de 2 dias deixei o carro parado, a bateria descarregou completamente e agora já não carrega, só serve para ligar o carro, não serve para dar arranque. Outra situação é a aceleração parece que o carro está a funcionar com apenas 2 cilindros porque o carro não tem força, não acelera, preciso fazer um grande exercício para o carro acelerar.
I’m having this issues with mine. It’s probably a year old now in my ownership at least. And now it’s having issues just starting. Any advice?
I wonder why they were replacing the battery instead of charging it. I can't believe that many batteries went bad. I wrote this to a different Kia thread but the main points would apply here.
That is an 80mA draw but should take closer to 10 days to drain the battery. At any rate you are supposed to have less than 50mA draw on that car so something is pulling too much but it is something very slight, a module is what i would suspect. What you do for starters is to make sure your battery is good and fully charged. Get it up to 100% with a slow trickle charge if it passes testing. Make that a verifiable full charge, not a estimate. Best battery test would be a tester that does a resistance test but it also is a good idea to load test. Try to do the testing before charging. If it is after then you need to remove the surface charge by cranking with electrical loads on a few times prior to testing. Then make sure connections are good. Next is alternator testing. Full tests. When done with all that and is fully good result then you want to leave a door open so you'll be able to access any interior fuses without having to open a door and wake a computer. Just use a suitable tool to close the door latch so the computer believes the door is closed. I'm not sure if that has any door jam switch but if it does you'll have to depress it and find a way to hold it depressed. Now put a amp clamp over an individual battery cable after waiting about a half hour for the systems to sleep. Using a amp clamp saves opening a circuit and waking the system. You only have to do either the ground or the positive side but for instance if you have two cables feeding from the positive post you will need to test each one at a time. If you see more than 50mA draw you are going to trace it to the source by disconnecting fuse circuits one at a time while watching for the draw to drop to 50mA or less. Be sure to record which fuses are being removed and from where so you can put them back in properly later. In your case I would probably start with disconnecting the alternator but not if it is hard to access, bear in mind though that it could be your draw if you don't find it elsewhere. Once you find which fuse circuit the draw is on you'll need a wiring diagram to find what is fed by that fuse and depending on what that is you may have to put the fuse back in place and wait for the circuits to once again go to sleep before disconnecting another circuit or fuse downstream of that one and being fed by it. The goal is to continue following the draw to its source and sometimes that first fuse you found the draw on simply feeds more fuses. Just keep going further as needed, allowing time for circuits to sleep after each time you disturb the circuit. Eventually you'll get there. I can tell you that most people don't have the patience that it sometimes requires.
That is an 80mA draw but should take closer to 10 days to drain the battery. At any rate you are supposed to have less than 50mA draw on that car so something is pulling too much but it is something very slight, a module is what i would suspect. What you do for starters is to make sure your battery is good and fully charged. Get it up to 100% with a slow trickle charge if it passes testing. Make that a verifiable full charge, not a estimate. Best battery test would be a tester that does a resistance test but it also is a good idea to load test. Try to do the testing before charging. If it is after then you need to remove the surface charge by cranking with electrical loads on a few times prior to testing. Then make sure connections are good. Next is alternator testing. Full tests. When done with all that and is fully good result then you want to leave a door open so you'll be able to access any interior fuses without having to open a door and wake a computer. Just use a suitable tool to close the door latch so the computer believes the door is closed. I'm not sure if that has any door jam switch but if it does you'll have to depress it and find a way to hold it depressed. Now put a amp clamp over an individual battery cable after waiting about a half hour for the systems to sleep. Using a amp clamp saves opening a circuit and waking the system. You only have to do either the ground or the positive side but for instance if you have two cables feeding from the positive post you will need to test each one at a time. If you see more than 50mA draw you are going to trace it to the source by disconnecting fuse circuits one at a time while watching for the draw to drop to 50mA or less. Be sure to record which fuses are being removed and from where so you can put them back in properly later. In your case I would probably start with disconnecting the alternator but not if it is hard to access, bear in mind though that it could be your draw if you don't find it elsewhere. Once you find which fuse circuit the draw is on you'll need a wiring diagram to find what is fed by that fuse and depending on what that is you may have to put the fuse back in place and wait for the circuits to once again go to sleep before disconnecting another circuit or fuse downstream of that one and being fed by it. The goal is to continue following the draw to its source and sometimes that first fuse you found the draw on simply feeds more fuses. Just keep going further as needed, allowing time for circuits to sleep after each time you disturb the circuit. Eventually you'll get there. I can tell you that most people don't have the patience that it sometimes requires.
CommentCar stalled while driving was running fine
2009 Kia Rio Hatchback lx 120000 miles
Car cranks but has no spark all usual suspects checked. There is no signal from car to obd port except airbag module. What should I be looking at next?
2 reports
Hardstarting
2012 Kia Rio Sedan 1.6 150000 miles
I replaced my engine mounted automatic gearbox and tried starting her up but then after turning it hit a dead halt i then turned it past the dead halt point and then engine rotated dreely up until the dead halt again i repeate the proces and still it would bot turn over at that poibt the dash lights would even go dead bcause of the draw on the battery before i put in enine it turned freeky all the way hyst after i attached auto box it would do this what can i try or do you have advise ny email adress is heinrichtheys26@gmail.com
Kia, Rio, 2012
2012 Kia Rio Hatch 200000 miles
The car fuel consumption is high, it was in a flood , a few years ago. Whilst driving, the car will just surge, like a power dip. If I lift my foot slightly, it loses power. No codes, no fault codes. All sensors are new, filters are new. Up hill I have to accelerate higher, the eco green goes out easily. The things I didnt check yet, is the CAT and gear box( automatic). Your advice will be appreciated.
14 reports
Transmission will not go into gear
2005 Kia Rio Engine 118000 miles
2005 Kia Rio
Original problem: after hearing to operating temperature vehicle will not accelerate no engine power or rpms, pull over put into park engine would rev up, put back into gear no rmps. Actions: removed MAF Sensor cleaned with MAF cleaner crc , cleaned throttle body, removed IAC Sensor cleaned with throttle cleaner crc brand. Inspect spark plugs all are good and gap correct.
Engine performance is better and has no miss or stall. Went to put into drive and the dash D ILLUMINATED icon light does not come on now, car will go into P,R,1,2 but not D . drive 2 city blocks to get fuel a… Read complete
8 reports
Noisy seemming to come from manual transmission
2002 Kia Rio 163000 miles
Grinding noise heard while travelling lefthand front
7 reports
Problems with a Rio? Share them
Find what you needed?
Thank you!
