Fuel pump relay problems
Top problems
Won't start
Ford Expedition 2003 Eddie Bauer 175000 miles
I bought this truck a couple months ago and when I checked it out I started it it sounded fine so the next day I bought it it ran fine for about half the day then I went out to start at one time and it wouldn't start and I've never been able to start again so I replaced the fuel pump the fuel filter I moved around some relays and see if maybe that was it I did find a burned out fuel pump relay on the board that I switched out and still won't start and the damnedest thing it seems like it's not getting power to the ignition or something because when I put the key in and turn it I get nothing bu… Read complete
4 reports
2
PH
I tried switching out the mother board in the fuse box and still have the same issue didn't change anything when I push on the one plug it still tries to start not sure what to do next any ideas?
Vote helpful1
PH
Still haven't figured out what is wrong with it
Vote helpful3
GI
Check the timing belt maybe it's loose and it skipped a couple of spaces and it's not running correctly
Vote helpful
MI
Its ur inherta *fuel injector cut off switch) if the push button poped up and click back down replace it and it will start up
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CommentCheck charging system
Ford Expedition 2003 150000 miles
I changed the fuse box after my fuel pump relay went out not my alternator won't charge and it's killing my battery now
9 reports
If the alternator is not charging the battery, the battery will eventually drain and the vehicle may not start. Here are some things you can check:
Check the alternator belt: Make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping. If the belt is loose, it can cause the alternator to spin too slowly to effectively charge the battery.
Check the alternator connections: Make sure the connections between the alternator and battery are clean and tight. If the connections are loose or corroded, the alternator may not be able to effectively charge the battery.
Check the alternator itself: If the alternator belt is tight and the connections are good, you may have a problem with the alternator itself. You can have the alternator tested at a local auto parts store or mechanic to determine if it needs to be replaced.
Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator is responsible for controlling the voltage output of the alternator. If the voltage regulator is faulty, it may cause the alternator to not charge the battery.
Check the alternator belt: Make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping. If the belt is loose, it can cause the alternator to spin too slowly to effectively charge the battery.
Check the alternator connections: Make sure the connections between the alternator and battery are clean and tight. If the connections are loose or corroded, the alternator may not be able to effectively charge the battery.
Check the alternator itself: If the alternator belt is tight and the connections are good, you may have a problem with the alternator itself. You can have the alternator tested at a local auto parts store or mechanic to determine if it needs to be replaced.
Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator is responsible for controlling the voltage output of the alternator. If the voltage regulator is faulty, it may cause the alternator to not charge the battery.
If everything worked be for you took fuse panel out I would start there. I had to replace fuel relay but I cut connection wire from plug and put relay that was easier to get to and there’s a wire that shuts pump off so it wouldn’t flood the motor fine it and hook to relay but it will still run even though you just wire in new relay - the problem with taking fuse panel and replace relay is it could go out again it gets hot behind the panel and that’s the problem usually
CommentCranks Starts and dies
Ford Expedition 2012 XLT 4WD 5.4L 3V 220000 miles
Performed a timing job replacing timing chain guides, timing chains, lower sproket, rocker arms, lash adjusters, set to time. Started, detected an oil leak on passanger side valve cover gasket, reset gasket, not sure if leak controller entirely. Started stalling while pressing brake pedal and started running rough. Chased leak, removed power brake booster to replace but found main vacuum hose loose. Reinstalled booster, reconnected vacuum hose apparently no more leaks. Noticed the message in the dashboard asking to check break system, parking break light on but break not set, and rear lights a… Read complete
1 report
Your timing is off. You need to go back in and redo it
Found two relays acting up (PCM) and fuel pump, closing circuit erratic, used forscan and found silent dtcs, all related to low voltage, new battery is installed, crancked and started running smooth, but having trouble to run on idle (dies often but starts right away) check brake system was resolved by replacing brake light switch, lights are normal and doesn't die anymore. Drove around all normal for 15-20 miles even in traffic, parked to get a soda and then started running rough. Revving up it run smooth. New Forscan shows dtcs P0356,369, 390, 394, indicating a problem with cam sensors circuitry. Is there a way to test the sensors? testing the wiring, the reference would be ground or everything has to be pcm? By the way information I found onDTC was at RUC module that affects fuel pump driver, once dtc cleared and new battery, problem was gone, now I have to deal with the new codes. It is a never ending
CommentPats system code 16
Ford Expedition 1999 180000 miles
I was driving and a spark plug blew out of head fuel pump relay was constantly making contact plugged into the diagnostics not making communication the path system has fuel cut off to the injector s
4 reports
CommentProblems with a Expedition? Share them
