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Radio quit working
Ford F-150 2008 102000 km
My stereo in my F150 worked fine on Friday. On Monday...nothing. I checked 3 fuzes under the dash as indicated by the owners manual as having something (anything) to do with the audio system. All fuzes were tested and are ok. Still no radio. Any ideas??
CommenterWhats draining my battery? 
Résolu
Ford F-150 2002 F150 167000 km
When my truck sits overnight, something is draining on the battery. When i open the door the dinger goes off and the radio turns on (off whenever i turn vehicle off). Start truck up and bam... No radio sometimes no wipers. It has a brand new battery i installed a month ago. Testing says alternator is fine. Only new in the last year is a fuel pump.
Help!
Help!
7 signalements
vikrampaul93 de Inde il y a 5 ans
Damm even I am having a similar kind of issue, I have searched all over the internet and even have posted on number of threads on different forum, no solution seems to work. I am really frustrated, can anyone of you here help me resolve this issue, I am very much tired now
Pappybeare de États-Unis il y a 5 ans
I have read that a front windshield leak causes the GEM module to short out if at any time you have things that come on and off without you turning them on. It is a box connected directly on top of the under dash fuse box. It is very hard to get out, and they are hard to find for the older trucks. You either have to buy used or remanufactured, and the model number of your part has to exactly match or all of your options will not work. I’m still trying to get one for mine, but haven’t had any luck. I have looked for a cross reference part #, but haven’t had any luck. Even my call to Ford ended with them telling me to find an electronics repair shop that can refurbish mine. I still haven’t found one that will guarantee the part for more than 30 days, and they want me to send my part to them and then wait for them to make the repair and they will mail it back. The cost is astronomical too! To have mine repaired it was $400, and if I want to take a chance on a junkyard part, I can get one for $150. The junkyard part is only guaranteed with an exchange if the part they send don’t work. I can’t find any information on specs, or any testing methods. I’ve even tried to get nomenclature to find out what the model #digits mean. There is mot much good info on this part. I hope this helps. Make sure you have the windshield resealed before replacing the part if that’s what yours turns out to be.
Action Jackson de États-Unis il y a 4 ans
I think that's my problem. When I brought it home. I had break lights and turn signals. Now I have none. Bad arch when putting battery cable on. Positive or negative? What do you think?
@Action JacksonYes they had bad seals from factory it's the GEm modules.
Meilleure réponse (selon Ksj1)
So driving down the road and the solution came to me, in the form of my under dash fuse panel. It caught fire! Got it out with minimal damage. New fuse panel (and a couple short wire repairs), no more issues! Not my preferred way of finding the issue but it is solved and fixed.
All 97 to 03 f150s leak at windshield which gets onto the GEM module that's mounted to the back of the fuse box.
CommenterControls on Dash Console not working - A/C, Heater, Radio, etc.
Ford F-150 2012 XLT 75000 km
Controls on Dash (center) console not working; A/C, Heater, Radio, defrosters, etc. 1) When radio volume/pwr knob pushed the clock shows briefly in the led window above the console. 2) Hazard button works and turns hazards on. 3) CD Player controls work. 4) Cigarette lighter works. 5) USB port provides power to MP3 player. 6) Entry bell has a different sound and speed. 7) Keyless entry (remote) no longer works.
Removed negative cable from battery over night to try and "reset" systems. No change.
Removed negative cable from battery over night to try and "reset" systems. No change.
25 signalements
I have the same exact problem. Has anyone resolved this ????
I'm bout to rip into my dash. It has gone on for to long. I'm guessing that it has to do with the blend door one part at a time. Once I know what cuase this I will share
We had the same problem... truck map and radio and a/c we dead going down the road and ultimately the truck engine check light came on and went dead. Turned out to be a loose harness on the driver side under the hood near the firewall. Lasted 2 years but on hauling a trailer, Problem has reoccurred now and not sure the cause. F150 king ranch 2012
With LED tail lights equipped... a cracked tail light,, and water getting into connections can cause network communication failure , reflecting the problem in a number of systems , no communication. Believe it or not...
TikiTim321 de États-Unis il y a 4 ans
I have the same issue that started after the truck wouldn't starte because of what seemed to be a dead battery.
Can a bad battery cause these problems?
Can a bad battery cause these problems?
This just started happening to me about 1 month ago. It is intermittent, so one day all works well the next I have nothing. Controls on Dash (center) console not working; A/C, Heater, Radio, defrosters, etc. 1) When radio volume/pwr knob pushed the clock shows briefly in the led window above the console. 2) Hazard button works and turns hazards on. 3) CD Player controls work. 4) 12v outlet works. 5) USB port provides power. 6. ) Keyless entry (remote) no longer works when the center console controls aren't working but works on the days the controls are working. Anyone have any updates on a repair that will fix this??
I took my truck into Ford Dealership. Of course, everything was working fine that day. Told me they couldn't duplicate the problem in the shop or on a test drive. They decided to perform a self-test on all the modules and found multiple modules lost communication with the BCM (Body Control Module). Ran a self-test and network test on the BCM and it passed. Performed an inspection of the BCM itself and found C2280B on the bottom of the BCM to not be fully seated and locked. While wiggling this connector they were able to duplicate the no radio, heat, defrost or center console controls. Reinstalled the connector and made sure it was fully seated and locked. 3 days later and I haven't had any issues since. Cost me $190 labour but I wouldn't have been able to figure this out myself.
Giosantana3 de États-Unis il y a 4 ans
Can you share a picture of the connector? I’m having the same issue here
I’m getting lost of communication to ABS module, traction control light, hill assistant, brake light stays on , wrench light , Radio is not working , steering is hard and steering assistance not available, pre-collision system not available,
So you’ll are having similar issues as I am. I have weeded through some of them. BCM and other modules are the problem. Possible electrical shorts. I have ruled out a lot and will do a list. First thing is the bcm lower plug make sure it’s locked. Check bcm thoroughly for any water damage- known issue from windshield leaks or sunroof drain. Need bi-directional scanner to erase codes but forscan on wi does supposed to be the best. Ang aftermarket leds need flashed into the pcm(lower voltage) confuses the bcm. When bcm acts up it does whacky stuff. Also co fusing the tccm(trans)(4x4), pcm(sometimes throws codes). The bcm is the gate keeper from inside to outside communication...things I e done and recommend. Clean all grounds first and there’s a lot of them. Then make sure battery and alt are checked and fine. Then pull codes. Codes will give you idea where to start. Most likely the bcm has triggered what’s called FET’s which is internal(dumb ford design). It’s basically the breaker for electrical. If you have a bulb out it can trigger the FET. Need fordscan or other options to actually go into the bcm build profile and reset the FET. Which is roughly where I am now. I removed all leds deleted codes now got forscan but note: I’m not a pro with this yet. Read read read. Make sure to save your module info and make sure you have 2 keys just in case to reprogram if need be. I’m working on the key part lol. You can basically take any module and build it as you want or reprogram(flash) it. My issues are external turns stay lit- have 0 communication from inside to outside. 2 4x4 codes. Feel I need bcm rebuild but need keys to reset (PATS) which is the anti theft. Have to have 2 keys to do this…
CommenterBattery drain issues! Résolu
Ford F-150 2001 crew cab/4.2 150000 km
Battery draining battery would drain down Neil driving. And after parking for the night. Would have. To. Boost off. Would make Clicking. Sounds in the. Dash. Area light would go dim when driving. Would pull a full Charged battery. Down quickly. Horn has not worked several. Months. ABS light stays on all the time still stays on all! the time after. Replacing alternator. And battery cranks up but dont take no time for lights to dim. Down to. Where you cant see at all it. Drains battery all the way down Alt!ernater done Á volt. Test on the alternator while truck was running. Registered. 11. Volts… Lire en entier
19 signalements
Meilleure réponse (selon Ruby)
Please help. With this. Has been. A headache getting stranded too much have been checking. Wires, and fuses, still got more to check can you have a certain type of computer. To finde out. The direct. Problem whAT Type if possible????
In the 2004 ford f150 if you have that problem its the ground screw on the passenger side because they left out sealent around the windshield,water gets down in the passenger side. Take off the panel by the fuse box towards the door and check the ground,its usally russted away. Take and put in a new ground screw or use one already there.
I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with 4.6 v8 I was driving and all my dash lights and gauges went black I stopped cut it off and had to jump it off it ran for bout 15 miles then started losing power drove another 7miles and it was backfiring and going bout 2iles an hour soon as I turned in my drive way it cut off I can still jump start it but it cuts off soon as battery is drained what could it be
CommenterNo sound from the radio Résolu
Ford F-150 2015 5.0 engine 4x4 XLT 100000 km
Okay. So on the entertainment screen. (radio) said "system down to save power "
Had the charging system check. Found battery was bad. Replaces the battery. Now we have no sound from the radio, BUT have sound if you play a CD??
Any ideas what is going on???
Had the charging system check. Found battery was bad. Replaces the battery. Now we have no sound from the radio, BUT have sound if you play a CD??
Any ideas what is going on???
4 signalements
There are a few possible causes for this issue, but here are the most common ones:
Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel in the engine compartment and inside the vehicle to see if the radio fuse has blown. If it has, replace it with one of the same amperage.
Wiring Issues: Check the wiring to the radio and the speaker system. Make sure there are no cuts, frays, or corrosion on the wiring.
Radio Unit Failure: If the wiring and fuse are both fine, the issue may be with the radio unit itself. This could be caused by a malfunctioning amplifier, a problem with the wiring, or an issue with the unit's firmware.
Speaker Failure: If you have sound from the CD player but not from the radio, it's possible that the speakers are at fault. Check the speaker connections to make sure they are secure and the wiring is not damaged. If the speaker cones are damaged or blown, you may need to replace the speakers.
It's always best to consult with a professional technician who can diagnose and repair your car's audio system. They will be able to properly diagnose the issue and repair it so that your car's audio system functions properly.
Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel in the engine compartment and inside the vehicle to see if the radio fuse has blown. If it has, replace it with one of the same amperage.
Wiring Issues: Check the wiring to the radio and the speaker system. Make sure there are no cuts, frays, or corrosion on the wiring.
Radio Unit Failure: If the wiring and fuse are both fine, the issue may be with the radio unit itself. This could be caused by a malfunctioning amplifier, a problem with the wiring, or an issue with the unit's firmware.
Speaker Failure: If you have sound from the CD player but not from the radio, it's possible that the speakers are at fault. Check the speaker connections to make sure they are secure and the wiring is not damaged. If the speaker cones are damaged or blown, you may need to replace the speakers.
It's always best to consult with a professional technician who can diagnose and repair your car's audio system. They will be able to properly diagnose the issue and repair it so that your car's audio system functions properly.
Meilleure réponse (selon Stillabower)
Stillabower de États-Unis il y a 4 ans
We have figured it out thanks!! It was the fuse!!
I'm having problems like that , some days raido powers off, something drains the battery over night where is the BMC located
CommenterIt says that the fuse #601 is my power windows but I dot have a 601 Résolu
Ford F-150 2001 Pick-up 145843 km
I don't have #601 for my power window fuse under the hood I need to find out why my windows won't work
well i gave up and had to take it to an auto electrical shop now my windows work and i have ac now too
well i gave up and had to take it to an auto electrical shop now my windows work and i have ac now too
2 signalements
Babys bunns de États-Unis il y a 2 ans
I found the 601 slot but I don't know what the fuse looks like
Babys bunns de États-Unis il y a 2 ans
I still have no power windows and I w replaced all fuses the regulator the switches still no windows
Meilleure réponse (selon Babys bunns)
CommenterBlower speed, no air blowing on setting 1 or 2 in AC or Heat mode. Résolu
Ford F-150 2011 Super Crew/5.0L Flex V8 191172 km
Fan Speed setting 1 and 2 not working, clicking noise on passenger side. Clicking goes away after a couple days, on comes back when battery is disconnected from truck.
2 signalements
Updated, replaced the blend door actuator, my controls are single so there is only one. This was for the knocking noise. Found there are different versions of this BDA, only a certain one will work on 2011 Ford F150 with single controls.
At the same time pulled the blower motor resistor controller, and the blower motor. Checked to make sure there was no napkins, paper or other things in the blower motor cage. Motor turns, test resistance within range, should not be over 10 ohms and more than 1 ohm. I don't know what the exact reading should be but, with motors that is usually good enough.
Pull the resistor controller, it came out with some plastic wrapped around it and melted to it. The resistor controller tests bad on the low speed control circuit, high speed circuit is fine. Testing the blower motor, you can pull the resistor controller from the it's connector. Key On, Engine Off, engage the fan selector from 1 to 3 and the motor should not engage, it will engage on 4. Be sure to the blower motor secured either holding the motor side or strapped down. The motor if working is powerful on setting 4.
The resistor controller was covered in melted plastic, I've not confirmed yet, but it appears there two different types of controllers. I've not confirmed the correct one yet for my ford.
Pulling these are easy, some what. Pull the glove box, 3- 7mm size bolts at the bottom of the glove box. It will come right out. There might be a cosmetic cover under the glove box, that is removed with a trim tool. Two plastic anchors. They are on some thin metal be cautious. In my case there was no cover, I guess someone else was in this and threw it away.
From there you'll see the blower motor, with blower motor on the right side in the back. It's dome shaped and hhas three screws (8mm) you'll need a 8mm ratcheting wrench to reach one screw in the back, it is a tight spot, the other two are very easy. Power connector is easy to get loose. Can use screwdriver or fingers.
The resistor controller is on the right side closer to the front. Two screws (8mm bolts). Connector is easy to remove once you pull the unit from the holder.
Caution when doing this make sure the battery is disconnected. Also, be prepared for anything. I used a inspection camera to check the blower motor housing after removal just to make sure nothing was up there against the "rodent" screen.
I feel that this might be part of the drain problem I have been having this winter.
At the same time pulled the blower motor resistor controller, and the blower motor. Checked to make sure there was no napkins, paper or other things in the blower motor cage. Motor turns, test resistance within range, should not be over 10 ohms and more than 1 ohm. I don't know what the exact reading should be but, with motors that is usually good enough.
Pull the resistor controller, it came out with some plastic wrapped around it and melted to it. The resistor controller tests bad on the low speed control circuit, high speed circuit is fine. Testing the blower motor, you can pull the resistor controller from the it's connector. Key On, Engine Off, engage the fan selector from 1 to 3 and the motor should not engage, it will engage on 4. Be sure to the blower motor secured either holding the motor side or strapped down. The motor if working is powerful on setting 4.
The resistor controller was covered in melted plastic, I've not confirmed yet, but it appears there two different types of controllers. I've not confirmed the correct one yet for my ford.
Pulling these are easy, some what. Pull the glove box, 3- 7mm size bolts at the bottom of the glove box. It will come right out. There might be a cosmetic cover under the glove box, that is removed with a trim tool. Two plastic anchors. They are on some thin metal be cautious. In my case there was no cover, I guess someone else was in this and threw it away.
From there you'll see the blower motor, with blower motor on the right side in the back. It's dome shaped and hhas three screws (8mm) you'll need a 8mm ratcheting wrench to reach one screw in the back, it is a tight spot, the other two are very easy. Power connector is easy to get loose. Can use screwdriver or fingers.
The resistor controller is on the right side closer to the front. Two screws (8mm bolts). Connector is easy to remove once you pull the unit from the holder.
Caution when doing this make sure the battery is disconnected. Also, be prepared for anything. I used a inspection camera to check the blower motor housing after removal just to make sure nothing was up there against the "rodent" screen.
I feel that this might be part of the drain problem I have been having this winter.
New controller installed. Have to get my battery charged up to test. This winter has been bad...
Meilleure réponse (selon Henry)
Solved. Replaced Resistor Controller unit. Part from Autozone.
Replaced the resistor, (shredded my hand trying to get it out), it ran the 4 modes of fan, then failed. I guess it is the motor in there.
Could be motor, could be the wrong resistor or it was a bad resistor returned in the box to auto parts place. I had that the first time, bought resistor, put it in still same thing. Looked at the "new" resistor, and it was the same as I had removed. Took it back to auto parts store, and they gave me new one, that was branded like it should have been. Worked.
Had a friend who bought one off of Ebay/Amazon the part looked correct, but it didn't work either, sent him something that looked like it but it was either bad or meant for a different vehicle.
Had a friend who bought one off of Ebay/Amazon the part looked correct, but it didn't work either, sent him something that looked like it but it was either bad or meant for a different vehicle.
Thanks, but Ford here puts on their auto parts: Cannot return if package opened". WTF? How do you know it is going to work or not. It was $100 CDN.
CommenterA/C trouble Ford F-150 2013 Résolu
Ford F-150 2013 Truck 95000 km
Ford F-150 2013 my ac stoped working no compressor clutch no coolant fan no cabin blower I checked fuses and relays and Freon charge all checked good could this be the computer control it has done this before and then started working again intermittently now it’s not working again
9 signalements
Meilleure réponse (selon Tony)
CommenterUnknown buzzer or alarm
Ford F-150 2006 4 door . 5.4 L 136548 km
When I start my truck and either let it sit an run for alittle bit or get in it an go just a few minutes after a unknown buzzer goes off. It beeps four times stop about 5 sec beeps 4 more times stops beeps four more times an stops it does that about 5 time an will quit. Then a hour or so later if I haven't turn the truck off it will do it again but there is no warning light on the dash on or anything. An I just replaced the alternator not long ago
22 signalements
I have 2008 f150 with the same problems and it drives me crazy
I have the same problem with my 2005 f150 supercrew it makes 20 beeps at a time what is the problem.
James mathias de États-Unis il y a 7 ans
I have the same problem my 2004F150 but it's the door chime and I can't turn it off its beeping because it thinks the door is opened and it's not
Damn it! I was amazed that I found this question so quickly, only to realize that it's been here for 6 years and not one single answer.
Annoyed truck owner de États-Unis il y a 5 ans
Add on one 2005 Flare side 150 to the list of mystery 4 beeps than quit then like 1 minute 3 more slow long beeps than twice more of the cycle than silent for about an hour...
Ours stopped once we filled the tank. But will see if it returns when it gets back down to 1/4 tank.
Ours stopped once we filled the tank. But will see if it returns when it gets back down to 1/4 tank.
I believe that I found the answer, though I haven't had time to test my theory. The long and short of it is that the truck is telling me that I have a warning light out on the dashboard. I'm too tired to remember what one, but I do have one out, and I hope to replace it this weekend.
,it has to do with a passenger airbag warning light on top of the radio. I believe there is a fuse that will stop the alarm if removed.
AGERVATED FORD OWNER de États-Unis il y a 3 ans
My uncles 06 f150 has the door ajar alarm on everytime I get into it and then start beeping and the doors closed I don't know what's wrong with it I need answers please it's aggravating and dose it repeatedly
I have the same issue but my answer is the seat belt alarm
From what i understand, its possible that it could be the airbag light for the passenger seat not working. When i found this, i found the bulb not working.
It seems like nobody ever found out the reason that buzzer alarm goes off 5 intermittently chimes 4 consecutive times then stops. 1/2 hour later same thing… I’ve replaced my battery, alternator, and slammed all my doors as hard as I could to see if the “door ajar” was the reason and I’ve hit no answer yet to that issue. I’m at the moment about to change out my “Starter” to see if this was the reason for the chiming buzzer alarm…. Fingers crossed x
I have this same issue with my 2006 E-350 van. Did you find a resolution?
Nope…. I replaced the Starter and it’s still beeping. It does this as soon as I turn on the truck and then about 30 minutes, if not within 1 hour later it starts with the beeping again. Nobody has yet provided a solution I can take as “The Reason”…. Incredible, I know!
@Lily GreyThank you. A veteran mechanic told me that he had observed this problem in Fords as a result of a worn key that doesn't properly engage the tumblers. He said a duplicate key might solve the problem, but it would otherwise requiring replacing the ignition switch, which I am not willing to do. (I am going to sell the van. ) I am trying to think of a way to test his theory. I will post a comment if I resolve the issue.
CommenterLocked radio/stereo
Ford F-150 2009 70000 km
My radio is locked, it doesn't turn on, it only shows "F-150 built ford tough"
13 signalements
Disconnect the battery and then connect it again, then start the truck. That will reset the radio and it should start working normally again.
I tried, no luck. When i turn it back on clock still flashes
My radio is doing the same thing, maybe ford should do something about it. Its obvious its a common problem.
Mine just did it tonight guess ford does need to fix it...shame on ford
Lonsters87 de États-Unis il y a 6 ans
Mine is doing the same thing on my F150 2012 the clock flashes radio does not work
My 2011 F150 had the radio cutting out and then this last week the time flashes and the radio and cd player do not work
2011 F150, just had the battery replaced at Walmart, now the radio does not work, display shows "F-150 built ford tough". No buttons respond including on/off. Had the battery replaced about 3/4 years ago, did not have this issue.
My light on my radio wont light up on my 1999 ford f150 truck what could it be
I have an aftermarket pioneer light up radio, It works lights up and plays but then cuts out and doesn't work for the rest of the time im driving it. Any suggestions please.
Any chance of anyone have a fricken radio wire diagram for a 2012 ford f150 lariat with sync radio??? Some asshole Broke into my car and cut the end of the harnesses to steal the radio but left the damn radio lol
CommenterHorn not working Résolu
Ford F-150 2012 F150 Ecoboost 118000 km
horn works with key fob when locking truck but does not work on steering wheel when pushed
8 signalements
Meilleure réponse (selon Dogg)
I replaced the clock spring and this solved the problem
CommenterHorn stopped working
Ford F-150 2013 F150 65700 km
Horn does not work from steering wheel and when alarm is set. Fuse is good.
31 signalements
The same exact thing happens to my 2013, any fixes?
Horn not working, fuse good, alarm not working either.
The horn not working on the wheel, was it ever rectified as to how to solve the problem? My horn does not work also on my 2000 Ford F150
Timmeefields de États-Unis il y a un an
Clock spring is bad, super common with ram
Commentercruse control Résolu
Ford F-150 2002 f150 lariat 4x4 5.4 170000 km
cruse control will not turn on. I changed the part off the master cylinder, still doesn't work. I keep reading of a fuze link. where is it located?
6 signalements
Meilleure réponse (selon redd)
Found problem, inline fuze was blown, cruse works perfect. Inline fuze was connected to cruse part I replaced on master cylinder.
I have the same problem only I'm not finding an inline fuse. I have already replaced the switch on the master cylinder didnt fix it.
CommenterStereo Wiring
Ford F-150 2001 XL Sport/4.2/5 speed 19782 km
Need identification of wire colors for install of aftermarket stereo. [Dual] Blue Tooth rec.
13 signalements
Need to know the color code for the wiring of a after market radio
Buy the plug and play harness from amazon or crutchfield
2003 f-150 when I plug in the air temp sensor the engine misfires when I unplug it runs fine , sensor is oem and new
270000 miles
270000 miles
Crazymikey de États-Unis il y a 3 ans
I have a 1998 Ford F 150 5.4 ltr and running great ran out of gas went got more put it in now it acts like it's gonna start but will not. Anyone one know why.please help I'm stranded
Commenter5 signalements
Meilleure réponse (selon Zeke)
Babys bunns de États-Unis il y a 2 ans
WHICH FUSE MY CUSE HASNT BEEN WORKING FOREVER
Commenter3 signalements
LED third brake light or out / no
Check fuses / all good
Speed control inhibitor / good
Shifter position sensor/ good
Next move is switches on steering wheel/ $$$$$
Any suggestions????
Check fuses / all good
Speed control inhibitor / good
Shifter position sensor/ good
Next move is switches on steering wheel/ $$$$$
Any suggestions????
Steering wheel switch's come as a set on Amazon and were about $20. Did not fix my problem though...still doesn't enable
Same. If switches work, let me know. I’ve put it off
Meilleure réponse (selon Donb)
The bushing on the shift linkage had a little play in it and it was just by chance I shifted past drive in to 2 nd then moved it back to drive. I got on freeway and I tried my cruise control and it worked. So I intentionally tested my theory and that was it. The cable was then around $150.00 but I found a repair kit for both ends of the cable at Auto Zone for about $20.00 not hard to change at al.
Update: my cruise control NOW works…. After 3 years of chasing the solution! Turned out to be a bad brake pressure switch on the brake master cylinder. It’s the one that cancels cruise control if you touch the brake. The new switch came with an updated harness that is reported to short out. Appears it was a recall long ago.
CommenterCranks slow but will not start
Ford F-150 2001 275000 km
New battery and starter. Anti theft light no longer on or blinking when truck is at rest. Engine turns over better when the fuel relay is removed.
6 signalements
Think it may be a bad ground. Need to find out how to check the grounds. I did manage to reset the anti theft though.
Commenter43 signalements
redskindude de États-Unis il y a 10 ans
I have the same problem, did you fix yours?
Blank screen with sound,every thing works but on light picture F150 2013
Jaden Lamb de États-Unis il y a un an
My truck's radio just stopped working for me while omw home i tryed everything but-------------nothing my truck is a 2016
DV car service de États-Unis il y a 4 mois
Black screen no sound not sign of powering
CommenterPower windows not working and stereo
Ford F-150 2001 Automatic 20000500 km
I tried to change the stereo and ufter that. My power windows stop working and the stereo not working at all... I already checked the fuses under the dash inside the car and outside under the hood all the relays i already changed i disconnected the terminals of my battery overnight and nothing what else i can do ?
22 signalements
Check the ground it should be by the botem of pasenger door in the front under the plastic
CommenterTempature hand Résolu
Ford F-150 1997 Manual 4.6 150000 km
Tempature hand showing that its over heating but it isnt. What Could be causing this?
1 signalement
Meilleure réponse (selon Ryder)
If the radiator is cold, maybe the thermostat is damaged.
CommenterElectric Fan stuck on High
Ford F-150 2014 STX 5.0 4X4 140000 km
Fan is on high speed, Truck is not overheating, Fan kicks on while driving, started shortly before I had a leak in the upper radiator hose. Fixed the leak, installed new T-Stat, and refilled with 50/50. Radiator fans will kick on after driving for 10 mins or so and will not stop until I shut the truck off.
32 signalements
Did you ever figure it out? Im in the same boat with about the same milage.
Reeder lane de États-Unis il y a 2 ans
Same problem but mine is the 4.6 v 8. It's also got 300,000 miles so could be anything.
It was fuse for me, engine fuse box… forgot which but it was a 40 and completely burnt connection
Commenter11 signalements
Check fuses and warning lights. Other thing is to scan the ECU for DTC codes, maybe there's any code stored due to electronic failure.
One thing to do is make sure your emergency brake is completely off. Just had this happen to me . turn out it wasn't.
My car engine refuses to turn but not from key starter
My cruise control light turns on but my cruise control doesn't what could that be
Neither will mine, it was sudden. I'm in an 06 expedition. Also the pass 3rd row seat motor wont work, or the power point. No blown fuses under the dash.
CommenterSparking sound when running heat Résolu
Ford F-150 2004 104000 km
Was running heater / defrost. Heat on high blower on med. Started hearing a loud click or sparking sound. Turned everything off radio, heater. Trying to figure out where it was coming from. It stopped. Turned heater on it starts up again. I adjusted the temp down and it stopped for a few minutes and started again. Turning down work. Doesn't do it when on the cool side.
1 signalement
Meilleure réponse (selon Joeann)
Was the blend door that switches between hot and cold air.
CommenterRear defrost
Ford F-150 2013 limited crewcab 35000 km
Rear window defrost and heated mirrors not working
5 signalements
The dash switch for my rear defrost and heated mirrors stopped working or lighting after ford replaced my driver side mirror. What would be the fix for this?
CommenterHeating problem
Ford F-150 2015 3.5 liter ecobost 220 km
Its a 2015 brand new ford f150 truck. The truck sat on the dealer lot for 9 moths or so. The heat is not
Working, you can feel heat but no air is being pushed out this is after the truck has been parked overnight and sits for more than 7 hrs. Once I drive it for 30 min or so and start back up
Then the heat will blow out the vents and floor... Dealer said it may be a dead battery cell??
Working, you can feel heat but no air is being pushed out this is after the truck has been parked overnight and sits for more than 7 hrs. Once I drive it for 30 min or so and start back up
Then the heat will blow out the vents and floor... Dealer said it may be a dead battery cell??
4 signalements
Have you checked if the air is coming out of any other vent? Maybe it's a problem with the air flapper. Can you get cold air? If not, check the blower motor, although it's weird that it starts after a while.
Heater barely works on my 2012 F-150 xlt. Takes a long time and then it barely blows luke warm air.
I have a 2013 Ford -150. I have a brand new blower motor. I keep up with old changes a week old from that. And I still can get the heat to come out of my vents. When its hot outside its warm air. When its cold outside its cold air. I was told about a year ago when I got my water pump done it was a fuss under the dash board that was making that happen. Which would take 10 hours to take the dash down to get to the fuss. They checked that on one of those machines.
TshapedBONE de États-Unis il y a un an
I have a 1997 Ford F150 4.6 XLT the heater blower works, but it doesn’t defrost and steam comes out of the vents which fogs the windshield! Anyone know what’s the problem?
CommenterRadio Not working since New Battery Installed
Ford F-150 2012 F150 XLT 82000 km
I had a new Battery installed and since the Radio Shuts Down after turning of engine.
6 signalements
I replaced my trucks battery and the radio, phone and clock are not working. Any help It is a 2010 F 150 crew cab 5.4 liter V8
I just found a YouTube video this morning for the same thing. Press the power button and the fast forward button together for about 15 seconds and it will reboot for you
Commenter6 signalements
Its the resistor rheostat located on the side of the heater hosing on the passengers side. (down under)
CommenterAc fuse problem
Ford F-150 2005 f150 4.6 xlt 159999 km
My pickup keep blowing a/c fuse every time i try to turn it on do you have any ideas
12 signalements
Did you ever get any answers? I'm having same problem...
I know this is old. But what was the problem? Having the same issue... would be very thankful for any knowledge... thank you
CommenterNo power to A/C clutch relay
Ford F-150 2012 3.5L Ecoboost 4 door shortbed 62000 km
I parked my truck A/C was working fine. Next morning started it up no A/C. After I did some troubleshooting the determination is fuse 30 (A/C clutch power10 A) in the power distribution box is good. I dig up some wiring diagrams and start through it. The load side of fuse 30 should have a internal (in the power distribution box) jumper to pin 3 (switch leg) on relay # 23 (fan clutch relay). I start it up, turn A/C on, I pull relay 23, check pin 3 nothing there. I go ahead and run thru the rest of the circuits. Relay 23 coil pin 1 is hot, I check pin 1 to pin 2 I show power across pin 1 and pin… Lire en entier
21 signalements
I'm going through the exact same thing as we speak
Same here; 2002 7.3 TD Excursion, A/C just quit, no power at clutch, fuse is good, etc.
What did you eventually find / fix ?
What did you eventually find / fix ?
Under hood on left side check diode for one way.
CommenterClock blinkingm no radio
Ford F-150 2011 F-150 100000 km
My radio won't turn on or off, the clock just blinks
15 signalements
My Ford F150 XL Truck radio will not turn on just blink. What is the right fuse to use? is the 20A or 5 or both?
CommenterDes problèmes avec ta F-150 ? Partage-les
Ça t'a été utile ?
Merci !
I'm going to get the guys at the local tech school to look at it. Sometimes it will run for a week,, Sometimes less...