Fuses: Device used as electrical protection. It limits the electrical current that flows through a circuit.
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They can be identified with a number that states the maximum current they can withhold. Once this current is surpassed (due to an overload or a short-circuit), the fuse breaks down and interrupts the flow of the current. The location and function of each fuse is stated in the owner's manual of the car or in the plastic lid of the fuse box.
Replaced right head assembly everything new on it, go to plug everything works but the headlight eyebrow lights up single light work , so i switch sides put the left on right & right on the left it works perfectly. Go to put it back on right side the headlight won’t light up still. Switch works fuses are good it just won’t light up headlight. Can someone give me some advice please already spent 400 on assembly much rather fix it myself.
The car will crank, but immediately goes into limp mode with Service Stabilitrak/Reduced Engine Power flashing on the dash. It also does not do anything when you press the gas. I have tried replacing the throttle body, gas pedal with the position sensor, and checked all fuses. The only other thing would be the ECM, but a friend of mine tested the ECM and said it was fine.
Did you ever figure it out. I’m tired or spending money and my car is doing everything you said. Please email me if you have a s solution for this. Willamenian@gmail.com.
The engine does not have any failure but it has occurred many times that I try to start the engine and it does not work. I've already checked all harnesses, connectors and fuses, cleaned them and nothing was changed. After a while of waiting, you suddenly try again and it starts. What might be wrong? Can anyone help me please? Thank you very much.
I located the fuse, but it checked out as functioning on the meter, so I am back to square one. The electrical system of the same-side door has had a few glitches lately. But why would the opposite side view mirror not work after I initially removed the driver's side mirror months ago?
It started last summer. The AC was reduced to slightly cold air to the passenger vents, then to the passenger center vent, and as of recently, no cold air has come out at all. The condenser seems to be fine, the fuse for the climate control is fine, and the only similar problem I have found is a 2010 SS Camaro with blower door problems. If anyone could help me out, that would be great, as the heat is brutal right now.
The vents are most likely stuck and won’t open. I had a similar issue. They had to take apart the dash and open up the vents on the inside to get them to open.
Use a bore scope to go under the passenger side glove box area into the that little hole to see if the blend door is broken. There are videos on you tube that are super helpful. If it is, there is an easier and less expensive way to fix it rather than having to take the dash out (but its aggravating). I have had similar issues that progressively got worse. I ended up replacing the blower resistor which fixed the fan speed issue but even after checking everything from the fuses, to the cabin air filter, to refrigerant... no cold ac so the blend door is going to be the issue.
I had that same problem and I saw a video on YouTube that said 9 times out of 10 it could be the fuel pump...well I ended up changing it after I realized that me ECM had burned out also...I replaced it as well and now I can't get my immobilizer to recognize my key
My 2011 Camaro is doing the exact same thing. When I open the drivers door or pop the trunk #5 fuses blows and k26 relay clicks. Does anyone know what is causing this? I’ve already checked too many things to list here.
I’m not too familiar with cars so I’m hoping someone could help me with this situation. My car continually goes off and notifies me of “theft attempt” and sometimes it will also notify me that my hood is open. I tried removing the theft deterrent fuse to see if it’ll stop randomly going off and it did. I then started using car play (I had stopped for a while thinking it was a parasitic draw) The car started to go off again and notify me of a theft attempt. With the fuse removed, I thought this would no longer happen. I really don’t know what to do from here.
Car is not kicking on fans when temp sensor is unplugged fans go full blast, replaced all relays...fuses... connector on fans are perfect fans sound fine when temp sensor is unplugged( full blast) guage working... next is to replace whole fan unit...FML
Any feedback on testing fan control module , has almost overheated wiring issue?
Electricity fully operational, no sounds at all from turning the key. If I let the car sit for 2 hours, it'll fire right back up. New starter, battery, and alternator already replaced. What should I do? I think the problem in in the fuse box but idk where to start.
I have a 1987 Z-28 TPI 350 i put in a 39 Chevy. I have rebuild the engine and it runs great. I have installed a new starter and solenoid ( also i have installed a new 21 fuse wire harness ) but the solenoid spins and won't engage the starter unless you repeatedly try starting it and it eventually cranks the engine and starts. Ive traced back the wires and don't seem to find any issues. I did a voltage test at the solenoid and a got 9v reading. Any trouble shooting tips would be greatly appreciated.
The defrost system (heats the rearview mirrors and rear window) doesn't work. The button lights up, but nothing heats up. I've checked the fuses, and they're working.
I replaced my alternator and battery but the battery still isn’t charging.
I thought Maybe i need to replace a blow fuse but I don’t know which fuse to replace. I looked online but it isn’t clear on which fuse I should replace for alternator. Please HELP!!!
when i disconectted my Radio to inspect why it was disconecting power from the speakers same sound when unpluging a Guitar from and Amp , and coming back in seconds, loud bang, so now when i re plug my radio back in and the two antanas . nothing happens, no lights no sound, is there a way to reset system in the fuse box,