EPC light: It indicates that there is some malfunction with the electronic accelerator.
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When the car starts, this light comes on for a few seconds and then it must go out. If it remains on, there might be a malfunction in the accelerator pedal, in the throttle or in some secondary sensor that the ECU used to regulate the opening of the throttle.
I have a Jetta A 4 2002 and, when driving, it suddenly jerks, EPC and oil indicators turn on and it loses power until it stalls. I try to speed it up but it won't answer properly. Only after 20-30 minutes the engine will start again. The car has been tuned, the battery, oil pump and air sensor changed but it keeps doing the same thing. Can anyone help me? It really worries me when I'm driving and it suddenly stalls.
When driving at more than 180km/h the engine light start flashing and the the EPC light appears from there the vehicle looses power... What might be the problem?
For the last 5 years the EPC light on my jetta will randomly come on. At first it would happen most when it got hotter outside, but if I turned the car off the light would turn off. I have taken it to 4 different mechanics including the dealership. They run the test and tell me what codes come up and what they mean. They fix what they say is the problem, but 3-4 months later the light would come back on. So now 5 years later it's to the point that if it's really hot outside my car will jerk and will cut off if I'm stopped. If my foot is on the gas when this happens the EPC light will come on along with the traction light and tire pressure light. Can anyone tell me what needs to be fix because none of the shop have figure it out.
What have they told you when you took it to a mechanic? I pretty much get the same thing but last time it was time for me to get a tune up but it went right back the way it was after I got an oil change
EPC cans on car shuts off after about 20 minutes of driving it. I haven’t driven the car in about two years now trying to pretty much sell it for scraps because I don’t know what to do with it can’t afford to get it worked on. Had somebody do a diagnostic with a Mitchell one program they came to the conclusion that was the alternator. I replaced the battery about six months ago in the car. Will turn over now, but still has a few lights on the dash in my throttlebody position center and pedal codes are popping up on my diagnostic code reader
I own a standard Jetta 1.8T 2001 and, after perfectly starting the car and changing from first to second gear, EPC and ASR indicators turn on. I stop the car and it is not stable enough, revolutions go up and down. I then turn off the car, start it again and the same problem appears. Occasionally, after a while of driving and braking, the car stalls. Filters and spark plugs have been checked, injectors cleaned but everything is still the same. Could you please help me? It is really worrying and even dangerous. Thank you.
In case someone has my same problem, this was the solution to my problem: acceleration body cleanse, coils harness replacement and engine relay change (N° 428), which is located behind the MAF sensor, right next to the fire wall. Hope it helps someone.
I have slightly the same problem. At 200km/h the vehicle engine light start flashing then the EPC light appears from there the car looses power unless I stop nd switch it off then start again.
My 2017 VW Jetta had EPC and engine light on, and I took it to the dealer service in Summit, NJ. After the mechanic performed the diagnostics and found wiring damaged caused by Rodents. The wiring was repaired and rechecked and fault lights were cleared. The cost of the repair came to $564, not including sales tax. $555 (labor), $9.36 (2 connectors). I believe that I was overcharged with Labor cost while replacing $9.36 parts. I don't know what to do. Should I contact VW headquarter?
Under heavy acceleration, when the RPM reaches 5,000, the car loses power and goes into limp mode. The EPC and Traction Control lights turn on. When this happens, the transmission stops shifting and jerks or stutters a few times. Note: The car originally had a 1.6L engine, but it has been swapped with a 2.0L engine. However, the original 1.6L ECU (Computer) and wiring harness have not been changed. "
I think what you thought you didn't need to do. You should have when you changed the engine. That's a tuff one to help with without taking a look and sticking it on a diagnostic machine. Keep reves at 4000 and get it to a mechanic.