There is power in ignition but car not starting. Looks like some kind of fuse gone. Battery is charged and also tried with jump lead. But no sound of self trigger.
My vehicle suddenly stalls when driving. I've already changed the fuel pump, temperature sensor, catalytic converter, crankshaft and camshaft sensor and the oxygen sensor that is right after the catalytic converter, but still it starts, works perfectly at idle speed and, when I start driving it, it loses strenght and stalls. Does anyone know what it might be?
I have a yaris 2012 model and we are the same problem i also change all sensors including maf sensor and i change also the fuel pump but still the problem not solve. Any one can help me?
I have a Toyota Yaris 2007 model and it stalled when stopped at lights and when I would drive slowly through traffic. 4 mechanics could not locate the problem. I went to black label automotive in Nerang and they managed to find the problem straight away. They replaced the oxygen sensor. There have been no problems since :)
Good night, I have a Yaris and one day, when returning home, it suddenly stalled. A new fuel pump and fileter were installed, the crankshaft sensor was checked and it is working properly but still the vehicle does not maintain revolutions steady. It seems it is about to start working, but won't. No one has yet found the failure, hope someone here can give me a hand.
Buddy, check the air duct to the engine and the air filter. The throttle body must be dirty and the air flow must not be the needed one, and that is why the engine is working unevenly.
Hi, mave. The actual cause of the failure was a coil that had been replaced by a generic one which overheated more than it should. I bought an original one and the problem was solved. Thanks for your help.
Check engine light illuminated every couple hundred miles goes out ever couple hundred miles cylinder 1 misfire what it says changed plugs no difference power steering goes out periodically battery dies quick
The check engine light coming on and off and the indication of a cylinder 1 misfire could be related to a variety of problems, including a faulty spark plug, ignition coil, or fuel injector. The sudden loss of power steering could be caused by a malfunctioning power steering pump, low power steering fluid, or a problem with the power steering system's control module. The rapid battery discharge could be caused by a faulty alternator or a parasitic electrical draw from another component.
When i fill the fuel tank above halfway the car starts to shake if i let go of the gas even if i barely let go and sometimes while idle or moving slowly itll stall by itself
To begin, it would be best to have a mechanic scan the OBD2 system for error codes. Otherwise there are many possible issues that might be present, such as:
1. The fuel pump (usually in the gas tank) is failing
2. The fuel filter is clogged
3. The fuel line has debris or a leak in it
4. The fuel injectors are clogged. But also the problem could be a fuel/air mixture problem, or more than one issue at the same time, so:
5. Check the ENTIRE air intake system for leaks or blockages, this includes the filter and intake manifold. Rodents like to make a home in there &/or store food inside the system
6. Make certain the MAF (mass air flow) sensor and/or MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor are cleaned, dried, and working properly. Depends on the exact engine, you could have one or BOTH of these sensors in your car
7. Check that ALL of the spark plugs are oil-free, and are firing properly
8. Replace the PCV valve
9. Pour a two bottles of high quality fuel system cleaner into a 25% full gas tank (or less), and drive the car continuously until it's almost out of fuel
I have a 2015 Yaris, after I changed the high pressure diesel fuel pump it makes a gurgling noise at low revs, no indicator has come on and the mechanics can't find it.
It sounds like the fuel line needs to be purged of air that was introduced during the pump's installation. My coolant lines will gurgle when air bubbles are trapped inside.
The truth is that I'm thinking about it too and my mind is actually going towards the scv valve. When I asked if any adjustment could be made to the Toyota technicians, they told me that nothing can be done when new pumps are put in, I don't know if that's true
Toyotas and other cars have that problem, that when the battery charge is depleted or even when there is a battery replacement, the idle speed is left unstable. But you simply need to drive it for a while, and then everything returns to normal.
The frontal fog lights wont turn on. All the rest is ok. The left handle wich controls them is okey and apparently all the wire connections are alright.
I am curious about a sound I listen when I turn on and off the fog lights in the handle: this sound comes not from the fuse box, not from the handle and its wiring but somewhere near the right side passenger airbag area. Makes me get the impression that the problem could be from somewhere there?
Is there any diagram of how the wiring electric connections are installed from the handle to the bulb itself?
The bulbs are okey, the fuses are ok but they still wont turn on.
My car is a 2009 Toyota Yaris – manual transmission – with a 1.3L engine (2NZ-FE). I installed a 1.5L engine (R1NZ-P20D), but there's a difference in the intake manifold of the new engine compared to the one in the old engine. What's the solution?
Resulta que después de estar estacionado toda la noche, al encender mi vehículo en la mañana corcovea y tiembla, se acelera solo unas 2 a 3 veces, luego al apagarse la luz en el tablero que indica que ya entro en temperatura se le quita y puedo circular tranquilo hasta mi trabajo, lo estaciono por unas 8 horas y en la tarde le pega la misma falla pero con menos intensidad hasta que vuelve a calentarse, que pudiera estar pasando? Gracias
My car suddenly stopped and won't start using the spare key anymore,my original key with mobiser was stolen few weeks back,what can I do to start it again