Water pump problems
Water pump: It allows the refrigerant to flow inside of the engine.
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Inst install water pump timing belt
2000 Honda Accord Coupe,3.0 204000 miles
Car feels hesitation in missing
4 reports
Fix 2010 Accord EX-L
2010 Honda Accord EX-L V-6 Coupe 3.5L 6M
When driving on the freeway on my way to work the check engine light came on. After exiting i checked for error codes (as i always carry the p-code reader with me). The code stated that cylinder 3 was misfiring. I double checked all spark plugs to make sure the connections were okay. The engine light continued to come on, with a rough idle, and engine codes started to be more spontaneous as it stated random misfires/multiple cylinder misfires. I took my car to honda and was told that i likely need to replace the ignition coil, so i did that and still experienced the same problem. I then took i… Read complete
NHTSA consumer report from United States 11 years ago
2 reports
Getmariano from United States 2 years ago
I changed my temperature sensor and that fixed it. I'm 10 years 2 late but incase anyone sees this it might help them.
I'm having the same issues as most of you just in different order. I have 2001 Honda Accord EX v6 2-door coupe v-tec engine and almost have 144,000 miles. Clean title, only 2nd owner, all services done and bought it 9.5 years ago. It started as failing to restart if the temperature outside got above 95-100 degrees. It was only maybe 1x a year I'd have the problem and after waiting few minutes or hour, it would start again. Then it began not starting more and more but only during hottest days. Then 3 years ago engine light came on and showed 3 or 4 of my 6 engine coils as bad. I changed them all myself. Everything ran great except for the occasional not starting when it was hot until June 2026. Engine was running rough, stuttering, not starting hardly at all even when it was barely hot and I had 4 different mechanics look at it. First guy diagnostic tool showed a bunch of different P codes and he wanted to change my timing belt but I had just replaced it at 122,000 miles when I had my 120,000 services done. (Yes, I was 22,000 late on it but I got it done). Then he said it waz my sepantine belt. I told him no. Took it to a different guy and they agreed it wasn't but my battery had died and all codes had cleared. Now my instrument panel won't light up, my passenger door sometimes won't unlock or lock by fob, and then occasionally i can smell strong fuel. It was stuttering intermittently really bad before these last engine coils were put in less than a month ago And my battery doesn't stay charged if i don't start my car every couple of days. I don't drive this car very often but its usually highway miles. Never had any other problems except my water pump or fuel pump (can't remember cuz my dad sent it to mechanic I didn't know and left me out of the decision making (I'm his daughter - rolling eyes!) So June 2nd this year I was driving about 10 miles hour outta a driveway and the engine light came on blinked 3x fast then went solid. I drove very carefully and babied my car for the 17 miles home. It sat until the battery died while I was trying to get a correct diagnosis. Then all codes cleared but it felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel stuttering and nearly stalling. All my spark plugs are still good and spaced within the guidelines. I had it towed to a different shop and the guy says my spark plugs are fine, but my engine coils are bad. I just changed all 6 of them 3 years ago! He said some of the parts made during covid shutdown were cheaply made so I went ahead and had him change them all again. And he compression tested the bottom 3 coils beforehand and used a heat gun with led screen. It clearly showed #5 wasn't heating as quickly. (He made a video of working on my car to post online so I saw what he saw. 323. Auto. Repair if you want to see what he did. My car is the only video with the Honda accord in his videos. ) Now I was leaving today, warmed my car up but had to run back inside so turned it off for the couple of minutes and when I tried to start it again it tried to turn over but wouldn't. I finally got it running but decided to cancel my appointment and get it back into him. He didn't know anything about the cracked relay problem or what an ERG Valve was, or anything about cleaning or checking the manifold. I had learned all that from looking online for months about the v-tec selinoids etc. I seriously still think it has something to do with the relay value crack needing to be soldiered or replaced or there's something seriously wrong with everyone's engine because I'm seeing people on other forums going through these same problems. Now my a/c clutch (?) stopped working but it was very gradually over the past 3 summers. He showed the clutch or whatever it is that makes it work not running. I seriously think it's something to do with a sensor or cleaning out the oxygen sensor screen or something about that relay. It almost seems like a "short" that only happens sometimes. Anyone have any suggestions for getting together for a class action lawsuit against Honda for all the years they didn't include in their last lawsuit with me? I never had these problems with my civics, only the accord. It can't be a coincidence that we're all having the same problems! Nobody's coils wear out that fast in 3 years like mine supposedly did. Or else something else defective is causing it that Honda is not telling us. My car always smells hot too when I drive it for a long time. Anyone else having these issues? I'm running out of patience and money that I can keep dumping into a very well maintained but still 25 year old Honda!
CommentTiming is outa wacl
2004 Honda Accord 3.0L 4-door 280000 miles
I went to redo the water pump and found out i have to take the timing belt off so i do, now i cant get the timing to stay, everytime i set it it skips timing while i install the belt
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