Can't drive a half of a miles without wheels getting hot and my brakes are very hard.

Brake lights went out and I'm trying to locate the fuse for them. Can you please tell me where and which fuse is for the brake lights?

I have had my 2010 honda accord since 2015 and every single year around August/September they start making a grinding noise and I ha e to replace them!!!! I do not ride my brakes nor do I slam them so why is it I am having to replace them every year ?!?!?!?! Makes no sense and it is really frustrating I am a single mom of 3 boys with a minimum wage job and it is getting annoying g having g to spend hundreads of dollars on brakes every year!!!! Anyone else having this problem ?? Thanks

Results for My Honda Accord 2013 once the AC is on when driving slows to to pick up after leaving a bump and acceleration

The brakes oil is full but the brakes are not safe

Brake light on even when not engaged

What is the easiest way to run a new hard brake line on both front brakes?

Iights on dash- brake control module

My wife was at completely stop on a hill and she start feeling that the car go back she punch the brake harder but the car do not stop so she hit the gas and the car dosen't go forward either so she turn the car off and turn it back on but the car seems to lose power and now it shakes and doesn't speed up

Front brake sticking tryed everything

4 lights- vsa-eps-abs-brake lights will come on all at the same time. They will all go out all at once also but you never know when they will come on or off. The car dirves fine with no problems.

I have a 2014 honda accord exl sedan. My dash looks like a Christmas tree. First the LDW, FCW, ABS, VSA lights all came in now the TPMS light the light for the steering wheel with exclamation point is on and brake light. I thought it was wheel speed sensors as it corrected it once but they are all on ..anyone else have this issue

Most noticeable on smooth road unrelated to engine speed or gear used. Louder than engine noise. Declutched engine idle and it's still there. Wheel bearings, UJ's, brakes, tyres all checked by Honda dealer just passed Mot. Differential? Its a mystery.

Rear tires overheated to the point that it would burn a hand that touched it on 6-11-2012 (mileage 46,384). Smelled of burning rubber. Had to replace the left rear brake caliper, brake pad, and rotor. On 4-18-2013 (mileage 65,922) the same problem on right rear. This required replacement of the right rear brake pad and rotor. On 6-13-2014 (mileage 93,310) the same overheating occurred and required replacement of the rear brake pads. The latest occurrence was on 3-16-2015 (mileage 112,411). We have an appointment to have this examined in two days so do not yet know the diagnosis. I am very concerned that this failure could occur while we are driving and could result in a fire, blown tire, or crash.

When starting the car it sounds like a horrible grinding noise. It goes for a little while and then srops. Doesnt matter wether im breaking or hitting the gas. Tapping the brakes dont make it stop so i dont think its a locked caliber. It just does it... Any ideas what it could possibly be? Husband said maybe it has something to do with the parking break but he don't know wither. Hes not a car guy.

I bought my 2009 honda accord lx on december 30, 2008. Less than a month after that, my brakes started making a horrific squeaking sound every time i applied pressure to them. It does not matter if i tap them lightly or i push down hard; the brakes still make terrible noises. I took my car in to the honda dealership twice for an oil change and once for the brake sounds. All three times, i asked the associates to check the brakes. Each time, they said the brakes were adjusted (i.e. Sanded) and that the noise should cease. On the my trip, i told them whatever they were doing wasn't working. It w… Read complete

Ok so my car was stolen then I got it back an had to replace the ignition well tonight when I went to restart my car to go home the wheel unlocked but the key wouldn't go any further to start we wiggled the wheel the gear was in park we tried stepping on the brake an wiggling the wheel an turn the key at the same time turning the key an wiggling the wheel an nothing has worked please help I'm at a loss here

The car at high speeds will shake when applying brake pressure which is felt in the steering wheel

Brake lights, won't shift out of park

While driving alone into a marked space in a public parking lot, my foot slipped off the brake and hit the accelerator. The vehicle then accelerated into the concrete base of a light pole. Immediately, the vehicle bumper crumpled, the left side of the hood crumpled, and the passenger side air bag activated. There was no one except myself in the vehicle and the driver side airbag did not activate. At this date, november 10, i have no idea how much damage was done to the vehicle. *tr

So I have all those warning lights on my car's dashboard, but when I plug in the scanner to check for codes, it doesn't show any; it just says it can't connect. If anyone could please tell me the probable cause... it's a 2017 Honda Accord EX sedan (2.4L).

A few months ago I had several lights come on: ABS , power steering, brake, and tire pressure. After taking it to a shop I was told than an ABS sensor was malfunctioning due to an ABS flap on the passenger side getting stuck and that it can’t be fixed. They are not constantly on and some days don’t come on at all. Recently, my TPS light has started blinking. I’ve checked pressure, recalibrated, and even checked the spare. What could be the actual cause of all this? Performance of car has not changed at all and still gets 40-ish miles to a gallon. It does have 275,000 miles

It jerks while driving and especially when turning a corner, when you give it a brake, the pickup stops and even stops. If you give it a brake before cutting the corner and don't give it a brake while cutting, it doesn't stop, but it often breaks.

Got a bit of a story.
About 2 months ago I bought a 2017 Honda Accord LX (FWD) with Rebuilt Title & 38K miles. When warm/stopped at a light, the car will make loud grumbling noises and jerk forward. Kept having it looked at until about a month ago a family member took it out and it started leaking heavy fuel. Had the fuel leakage fixed but the Engine problem still persists.
I've had 2 mechanics say they can't figure out why it keeps missfiring, any advice? For any further context, I have the following lights: Check Engine, Electronic Power Steering, Tire Pressure Monitoring System and Anti-lock brake System on.

My car has actually shut the whole electrical off for few seconds while driving. The battery keeps going dead constantly telling me my brakes are bad or says my power steering is bad. But brakes are fine and so is steering power steering

I was slowing down and braking for a red traffic light. I had to apply a lot of pressure on the brakes as it felt like the car was going to accelerate. This is the second time that i had this particular problem. Both times, this acceleration attempt when i was braking, did not happen for the remainder of my drive. I did not notice the engine revving or see that the engine was overheated. I was driving on city street where the posted peed limit is 25 mph and i was driving withing the speed limit.

From the beginning upon taking delivery of the vehicle, the rear brake calipers were not releasing properly. We noticed a burning smell once after driving, but no warning lights were on. We also noticed the emergency brake was not always releasing, as per the warning light. At a routine oil service it was determined that right rear caliper was not full disengaging. The entire rear brake assembly had to be cleaned and adjusted, the rear brake pads and rotors had to be replaced. Both rear calipers had to be replaced. In the past, our vehicles have gone 90,000 miles before replacing only the pads, and then only the front. To replace an entire rear bake assembly indicates some sort of defect or engineering problem. Ma 07/30/15

Rear brake pads wore prematurely as per class action suit notification we received in 2010. Upon inspection for routine maintenance (no other signs of a problem occurred) found that the rotors were also ruined and required repair. Honda seems ready to wash their hands of the situation because of the class action settlement and would not pay for rotor replacement, at least that is what the dealer indicated. Total cost of repair was $337. Not happy and the second problem with the vehicle on a critical safety system (front wheel bearings went and were replaced by honda at about 20,000 mi). I'm concerned there will be ongoing critical failures if our experience with this accord is any indication of what is to come. *tr