Cuando voy en la carretera y voy en una velocidad constante vibra y cuando voy en bajas velocidades también vibra se quita solo cuándo acelero. Ya se le cambió bujías y bobinas de encendido
The outlet itself was bad; continuity test failed. Thank god the wiring to the outlet was good. Had to take out several panels to get to the outlet panel to replace it with an older outlet from salvage yard.
Replace the condenser relay switch in the fuse box under the hood. Had the same issue, it is a $5 part, fixed the issue. It is a little black relay, there are 3, one of them controls the condenser switching on and off. I bought a 4 pack off amazon and just replaced all 3, might as well. It was super cheap. All plug and play just like the fuses. Good luck!
Replace the condenser relay switch in the fuse box under the hood. Had the same issue, it is a $5 part, fixed the issue. It is a little black relay, there are 3, one of them controls the condenser switching on and off. I bought a 4 pack off amazon and just replaced all 3, might as well. It was super cheap. All plug and play just like the fuses. Good luck
Passenger side rear LED running lights (inner and outer) stopped working suddenly after rain. License plate lights are also out. Brake lights, reverse lights, and turn signals still work normally. Vehicle passed inspection last week. Possible fuse/module/relay issue?
Ive replaced my alternator and the battery light goes away but now it dies after like two trips and theres no battery light ive been taking the battery wires off when i stop and it has been working for now but i wonder if anyone else has had this problem and have identified the parasitic drain
Had an issue when we parked the van the battery would slow drain overnight. Sometimes it would be completely drained, other times drained just enough I need a little jump to start it. I still haven't found the drain, but I bought a battery disconnect switch for it. Just open the hood and turn a dial and the battery is disconnected. They make ones that are remote key fob operated too. It's a pain because I have to enter the password to unlock the radio and have to reset the clock if I car that much. But it preserves the battery and I don't need to jump it anymore.
I don't have a key phob for my 2007 honda Odyssey and my driver's door will not open I manually pulled up the lock and it still won't open what should I do?
J'ai une honda odyssey des annee 2004 qui presente un probleme de vitesse. Une fois le moteur en marche, le levier de vitesse enclancher, celle-ci ne bouge pas. Quel peut etre le probleme?
Hey, I might be able to help.
For the Honda Odyssey 2004, the shifter is officially called a "shift control cable" or "control wire. " One of the correct OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part numbers for that generation (1999-2004) is 54315-S0X-A82.
So if you're searching, try:
- "2004 Odyssey shift control cable"
- "54315-S0X-A82 Honda"
Some important things to keep in mind:
- That exact cable was used across multiple years (1999-2004), so you can safely search those years too for compatibility. - New OEM ones exist but can be expensive or discontinued depending on stock. - Used ones are commonly sold online from salvage vehicles in that same year range.
Some other options:
- Search by part number
- Salvage yard / junkyard
- eBay / used OEM
If only the end is broken, a bushing repair kit can sometimes fix it without replacing the whole cable.
Useful link: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/oem-hond…
Thank you! We actually got it from a local junkyard we found parting out an odyssey yesterday! $50 only. I called Honda and they wanted almost $500 smh. But they did give me the same part number you listed. Thanks so much!
Hey, this is actually a pretty common issue on the Honda Odyssey 2005, and the fact that only the driver window works is a big clue.
Most of the time, this is caused by the driver's master power window switch (the main control panel on the driver door). That switch controls all the other windows, and when it fails, the other windows stop responding even though the driver one still works.
Some things to check (in order):
1. Window lock button
- Make sure the window lock isn't turned on, this disables all other windows except the driver.
2. Driver master switch
- These are known to fail on this generation
- Replacing it often fixes al windows at once
3. Fuses / relay
- A blown fuse or bad relay can cut power to the other windows
4. Wiring between doors
- Wires near the door hinge can break or come loose over time
5. Motors/regulators (less likely here)
- Possible, but unlikely that all 3 windows failed at once
Bottom line:
If all other windows stopped working at the same time, it's almost always the driver master switch or something electrical (fuse/relay), not the individual window motors.
Hope I was of help :)
Sliding doors don’t work. Tried #7 fuse trick did not work. Looking for power door fuses which I believe are in the secondary fuse box under the hood which I can not find.
You’re looking in the right direction, but there’s some confusion here.
On the Honda Odyssey 2005, there is NOT a second hidden fuse box under the hood. There’s only one main under-hood fuse/relay box, and it’s right next to the battery.
Locations:
Primary under-hood fuse/relay box
- Passenger side, next to the battery
- This is the main one everyone sees
Secondary under-hood fuse box (this is what you’re looking for)
- Also in the engine bay, near the battery area, but smaller
- It’s usually mounted slightly behind or beside the main fuse box, closer to the
Fender/firewall
- It has a smaller black plastic cover
How to open it:
Same as the main box:
- Press the side tabs/clips
- Lift the cover off
The fuse layout diagram is on the underside of the lid
Important (about your sliding doors)
You're right that power sliding door fuses are split between fuse boxes on this generation.
However:
- The #7 fuse reset trick is the correct reset procedure
- If that didn't work, it's very common that the issue is not the fuse
What actually fails most on these:
- Sliding doors rollers or cables
- Door latching sensors
- Broken wiring in the door harness
- Power sliding door control unit
Those small 7.5A fuses can go bad without looking blown, and since that one feeds the body control system, it can take out the sliding doors and locks all at once. Replacing it basically resets everything.
Appreciate you posting the fix too, it'll definitely help the next person.